Sláinte: The Irish Whiskey Blog

A (not-so) Modest Proposal

Richard Nagle — Tue, 14 Aug 2012 03:14:32 GMT

I would like to propose a toast. It's a simple one really, though it may provoke strident objections and assertions of dearly and deeply held beliefs. It is this:

Let us raise a parting glass of Irish whiskey to mark the death, burial and banishment from memory of the twisted notion that there are Catholic and Protestant whiskeys.

That's it. Done. Great. Now, what can I pour you? Oh yes, and sláinte!

Is It True That...?
I have been asked many times -- by Americans -- about Jameson being the "Catholic" whiskey and Bushmills being the "Protestant" drink. I also have been told with great conviction -- by Americans -- that your choice of whiskey reflects your affinity for a one or another flavor of Christian worship.

Like most myths, the purported religious division in Irish whiskey is grounded in history. But in America, this one has badly outgrown its origins as well as reality. It's not a complete load of nonsense but it is nearly brimful in the b.s. bucket.

Labels
The muck and mire of political/religious identities in Irish history got a deadly start with Oliver Cromwell and went downhill from there. Over time, "Catholic" and "Protestant" came to mean "Republican" and "Unionist." Divisions became so hard and pervasive that even everyday products of were tagged with affiliations that had little to do with religion or politics.

Brian Quinn, the manager of Beam/Cooley's Kilbeggan distillery, grew up in the north (Co. Tyrone). He recalls that in Belfast years ago you could spot the Catholic and Protestant workmen in the pubs on Friday evening by what they ordered. Protestants would order a half-one (a glass) of Bushmills, a bottle or glass or Tennent's beer (made in Belfast) and Gallagher cigarettes. Catholics would order a half-one of Powers, a Guinness and a pack of Players cigarettes -- all made in Dublin at the time. It was about geography, not ideology.

In fact, one of the most iconic of "Catholic" brands had a long history being staunchly "Protestant." In his book, A Bottle of Guinness Please, author David Hughes writes that until 1939 any Guinness employee intending to marry a Catholic had to offer his resignation. That was as much class-based as it was religious bigotry at the time.

Eventually, the fact that the "Catholic" brands produced in the Republic of Ireland were from Protestant-owned companies didn't matter very much. It mattered more that they were Irish. Both Bushmills and Jameson were owned by the same Irish company for 15 years in the 70s and 80s. Today, the British drinks conglomerate Diageo owns Bushmills and Guinness and the French spirits giant Pernod-Ricard owns Jameson, Powers, Paddy and other brands. But that doesn't make those brands any less Irish.

Huh?
The Catholic-Protestant whiskey myth has endured primarily in America but it's practically unknown in Ireland. If you mention it there people will look at you sideways as if you just said with great certainty that Michael Collins was actually born in Kenya, not Clonakilty. The polite and unspoken response might something like, "Sure, you're daft or a goat or just a feckin' eejit, but if I pretend to listen to ye long enough ye might buy a round. Continue then."

Yes, there are diehard Republicans and others who hold fast to the past, but the vast majority of Irish are exactly that in identity -- Irish. They may be Catholic, Protestant, Celtic Mystics, jackeens, mulchies, culchies, boggers or just busy with living.

Land Of The Free. And Competitively Priced.
As Americans we aren't bound to any of those identities. We have a choice. Actually, we have an incredible range of choices available to us, including whisk(e)ys. So if you want to pick an Irish whiskey to drink do it for a good reason like, you want a malt, or a malt-blend, or a pot-still blend or a single pot still, or just "it's the one I like." Don't go screwing it up with some silly shite like it's Catholic or Protestant or whatever. That would be as bad, idiotic and un-American as choosing a whiskey because it's "Conservative" or "Liberal." That would limit choice. By the way, that doesn't include Heaven Hill's Red State and Blue State bourbons which both increase choice and, in a very American way, generate sales.

So raise a glass of an Irish whiskey of your choice and bid a not-so-fond farewell to the whole Catholic-Protestant whiskey thing.

Sláinte!

Guest Blogger: State of California Whiskey

Richard Nagle — Mon, 06 Aug 2012 20:21:45 GMT

EDITORS NOTE: It's been a very busy summer and, accordingly, quiet here on the blog. We will be posting updates shortly from tastings we've put on in the past few months. We've also been busy behind the scenes laying the administrative, tax and other necessary (and tedious, time-consuming) groundwork for creating chapters of the Irish Whiskey Society of America (IWSA) in other cities.

The IWSA focuses primarily on Irish, of course. But it also includes other whisk(e)ys at some tastings to explore the differences and similarities, to expand our palates and, simply, to enjoy some very good spirits. And yes, they have been very good, (though some IWSA members were not partial to a few of the poitíns sampled at a recent tasting). The point of a broader, non-exclusive approach to whiskey is the sharing, the craic.

Along those lines, and in recognition of the wider whiskey community here in the U.S., we welcome guest blogger Mack McConnell. Mack is a whiskey fan and writer from San Francisco. Mack says that when he’s not writing about whiskey, he’s probably drinking it. He also runs the Taster’s Club Whiskey of the Month, which features Scotch whisky and bourbon. He'll be giving his take on whiskeys that are, like Mack, from the West Coast. Take it away, Mack!:

California is known for a lot of things. Some of them are pretty good (San Francisco, The Beach Boys, craft beer), some aren’t so great: Hollywood, bankruptcy, Kim Kardashian. Whatever comes to your mind when you think of California, I’m guessing it isn’t whiskey. After all, the American whiskey reputation has been snatched up by Kentucky, Tennessee mostly. But this unfortunately leaves some great whiskey action happening right here in California that needs more attention.

Full disclosure: I’m a California-dweller (San Francisco to be exact) and am very much in love with my state. Maybe it’s for that reason that I thought it was important to bring the spotlight over here for a second.

I’ve had the opportunity to learn about some really cool distilleries and whiskeys coming out of the Sunshine State recently and thought I’d spread a bit of the love around.

"We certainly have the knowledge here because of the number of Scots who settled here and have brought their skills with them. Rye and bourbon were originally made by Scots and Irish immigrants," says Phil Elwell, from Ye Olde King’s Head pub in Santa Monica, a whiskey haven for southern Californians.

The west coast is known for its wine and beer, which is precisely why many believe locally distilled whiskey is also catching on. For some, it seems like California is ripe for such a movement, which is why it’s achieved a few drams of success - "People in California have grown up with wineries and microbreweries so they are already receptive to craft whiskeys," says Elwell.

What you can find here are whiskeys with very distinct personalities, whiskeys you don't find anywhere else.

St. George Whiskey, Alameda, CA

Jorg Rupf comes from a line of eau-de-vie distillers in Germany. Lance Winters has a brewing background, which is what did before coming to St. George in 1995. Together they run St. George’s Distillery.

St. George’s distillery is on the same premises as that of Hangar One Vodka, which is in an isolated airplane hangar in the old Alameda Naval Air Station.

Rupf and Winters bring certain beer techniques to their whiskey. For example, St. George uses a mixture of the toasted malts on their whiskeys that lend a rich, dark color to porters and stouts; they're the only West Coast distillers to do so. Some say this is why their whiskeys have such striking fruit aromas that make it so distinctive. Their Bourbon barrels also contribute to their signature fruitiness. They are also known to use smoked malts – smoked over hardwoods like beech and alder.

The product of their collaboration is like no other whiskey ever -- it has a rainbow of sweet fruit and flower aromas you can scarcely believe come from grain, and an amazing smoothness on the palate. Yes, it’s a single malt. Or, the “whiskey that wants to be a whisky” (2)

Charbay Distillery, St. Helena, CA

Charbay is known for it’s high-end brandies and eau-de-vie and produced near Napa Valley. More recently they got into the whiskey business and started to get wild.

When deciding how to build a great whiskey, they had a rather radical idea – embracing hops at a new level, featuring it in a similar way as some American beers. This, combined with aging in American White Oak barrels, creates a unique flavor profile.

Charbay Double Barrel Hop-Flavored Whiskey is impressive. Its aromas are vegetal – like grass and hay – and has a bitter finish (props to the hops). Heady, dry-grass aromas. More recently, Charbay has announced R5 Aged Whiskey, which is a new experimental whiskey distilled not directly from grain, but from Bear Republic’s Racer 5 IPA Beer, typically known to please very strong hoppy-beer fans across the west coast. It’s then aged for 22 months in French Oak.

Anchor Distilling, San Francisco, CA

In true American fashion, Fritz Maytag, the founder of Anchor, wanted to rediscover the way whiskey was originally made in America, the same kind George Washington used to make - 100% rye, sold straight from the still without barrel aging. He calls it “Old Potrero Straight Rye Whiskey”.

However, laws that still linger in America after Prohibition don’t allow him to sell it without aging it (which surprised me), like he originally planned. He does release one version aged for only two years – but he’s not allowed to call it “whiskey” due to California laws, and settles for “spirit” instead. Another version he makes is aged three years in charred Bourbon-type barrels.

In a tasting panel conducted by the LA Times, it was said that Old Potrero’s aroma is reminiscent of brandy-based liquer such as B&B. When water is added, notes of fresh hay come front and center.

Old Potrero Straight Rye Whiskey

45% ABV

$64

Nose: Very smoky and Scotch like. Old leather and molasses with a hint of Alspice.

Taste: Molasses, spice. A bit of vanilla and leather.

Finish: Very sweet molasses and spice that lingers for a minute and then simply becomes a bit smokey.

*tasting notes from Bourbon Enthusiast

Perhaps it’s because California doesn’t have a strict whiskey tradition to limit experimentation, or maybe it’s thanks to typical California craziness, but it needs to be noted that there are unique and seriously interesting whiskeys being created right here in the Sunshine State. After all, if we elected this guy to be governor, isn’t anything possible?

Citations:

1: http://articles.latimes.com/2004/dec/01/food/fo-whiskey1

2: http://americanhooch.com/2008/06/30/st-george-single-malt-whiskey/

Seeing Spots in Dublin

Richard Nagle — Thu, 24 May 2012 17:00:50 GMT

I arrived in Ireland earlier this week to take part in "Whiskey Week" activities that culminate with the second annual Whisky Live Dublin show on Saturday. The whiskey -- and the news -- is already flowing.

In line with both current rumours and past public statements about the expected frequency of new Single Pot Still (SPS) bottlings, Irish Distillers Ltd. (IDL) and Mitchell & Son last night introduced -- re-introduced actually -- Yellow Spot. We had a chance to sample the newest addition to the SPS line and the sibling to the legendary Green Spot whiskey at a tasting at WJ Kavanagh's gastropub in northside Dublin.

IDL's Seamus Lowry presents the newest Single Pot Still Whiskey, Yellow Spot

Yellow Spot has three components each matured a full 12+ years in bourbon barrels, Spanish sherry butts and Spanish Malaga wine casks. (As David Havelin notes in his first-to-the-web Liquid Irish blog posting last night, IDL does not issue finished whiskeys, and this may be the first-ever use of Malagan casks at Midleton.) It is non-chill filtered and is bottled at 46% ABV.

That compares to Green Spot as a 40% ABV, no-age-statement mix of 7- to 10-year-old whiskeys aged in bourbon barrels and sherry butts (about a 3:1 combination). They are very much siblings in the sense that they are alike but distinctly different. A few of us tried them side by side and noted the clear differences between Green Spot's crisp barley-grain "flintiness" and the contribution of the Malagan cask to Yellow Spot's complexity and delightfully nimble finish. You will want to spend time with this dram.

For many years, Green Spot was the sole survivor of an entire line of "Spot" whiskeys issued by Mitchell & Son. There also were Yellow Spot, Blue Spot and Red Spot, with the names corresponding to a daub of paint applied to the casks to indicate the ages of the whiskeys inside. All but Green Spot disappeared by the 1960s as the Irish whiskey industry was doing all it could simply to survive.

Yellow Spot begins the re-birth of that broader line and honors the paint-spot heritage with it's labeling. Interestingly, it seems entirely appropriate that Malagan wine casks were used in its creation. World demand for Malaga and other sweet wines had dropped steadily in the 20th century until its production was nearly stopped entirely. But just as with Irish whiskey and SPS whiskeys in particular, there is a resurgence of interest in fine dessert wines.

Yellow Spot's spot in the Single Pot Still Whiskey Range

Here are the official tasting notes:

Nose: The initial freshly mown hay aroma is given substantial depth by the typical Pot Still spices. Red bell peppers, freshly ground nutmeg, a tincture of clove oil and a splash of green tea, balanced with the sweet soft nose of honey and peaches contributed by the Malaga wine casks seasoned in Andalucia. An exquisite sensory experience.

Taste: The mouth coating sensation to be expected from this Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey is apparent from the first sip. Honey sweetness with Pot Still spices, slowly gives way to a spectrum of flavours, from the depth of freshly ground coffee, up through creamy milk chocolate to crème brûlée, picking up some red apples and toasted oak along the way.

Finish: Sophisticated and complex, the sweetness of the initial sip remains throughout, with a beautifully succulent mix of red grape and dry barley grains at the exit.

The pot still spice is very much there, along with a distinct yet subtle fruitiness that to me was evocative not just of red apple but red apple peel with both sweetness and a tannin-like dryness. The toasted oak was folded in there also. I'm looking forward to exploring it more soon.

I'm attending the week's activities both as a member of the Irish Whiskey Society here and the president and founder of the Irish Whiskey Society of America. A few members of the American chapter are here in Dublin also, some of whom I'm meeting for the first time. More on that later.

Even though it's a very limited release I hope to offer Yellow Spot at a special members' tasting in America very soon. That will be a treat as there are no stated plans to offer any of the "Spots" in the U.S. market. It is priced at about $80 per bottle for those of you planning to snag some from Ireland.

Finally, a special thanks to Michael Foggarty, the proprietor of both Kavanagh's on Upper Dorset Street and it's acclaimed sibling, L. Mulligan on Stonybatter. Not only is the food outstanding, but Michael's tremendous selection of craft beers and whisk(e)ys is extraordinary. Michael too also was instrumental in the founding and early success of the Irish Whiskey Society. If you are in Dublin, both of his establishments are not only recommended but a must, really.

As John Jameson was, Michael is a Scotsman

Pondering Paddy's Day

Richard Nagle — Fri, 16 Mar 2012 16:56:34 GMT

I have to confess to some ambivalence about St. Patrick's Day. Sure, I observe the day, usually by getting together with family and friends and enjoying a meal and a pint or dram or two (I do have a bottle or three of whiskey around the house...). And for someone with a prior career in PR and who's building awareness of Irish whiskey the day can be used to capitalize on media interest in all things Irish.

But there's something about the how the day is marked in America that just doesn't fit. The big one is getting locked-loaded-langered-plowed-blotto-wasted, etc., as a celebration of one's real or honorary Irish heritage.

I'm usually willing to have "one for the ditch" (it'll do ye no harm...) if it suits the time, place and company. But the last place that I want to be on Paddy's Day is at an Irish pub, most of them anyway. The popular perception that a day-long drunk is the way to mark your Irishness and Ireland's national holiday is, well, a vast load of shite.

In comparison, we don't don ascots and fancy hats and get plastered while swigging bourbon or mint juleps on Kentucky Derby Day. And we don't drink wine and eat cheese until we vomit on Bastille Day. Nor do we put on tartan and tam o'shanters and carry golf clubs while downing shots of scotch on St. Andrew's Day, the annual celebration of Scotland's patron saint on November 30. Any of those would look downright stupid and none of those would be promoted as a popular image. But Paddy's Day...

I indirectly battle that perception when I approach people about attending an Irish Whiskey Society of America tasting. There's a problem with using the words "Irish" and "whiskey" together. Many people react by saying "Oh wow, no thanks, I have to work tomorrow," as though the event is an excuse to get drunk. It's not until they actually come to one when they pleasantly discover that it's not even close to that. IWSA tastings tend to be an eyeopener to the whiskey for many people, sure, but also to the fun, the banter, the gentle slagging, the tidbits of history, heritage and culture, and the welcoming conviviality that is the truer legacy of generations of Irish emigration to America.

Ireland does have a long and tortuous relationship with alcohol. It stems from a lot of historical factors, including Ireland's poverty that persisted until the Celtic Tiger years. Generations have grown up in an all-or-nothing drinking culture where you either "took the pledge" and didn't touch the stuff or lived up to your heritage by showing how much you could drink. (Something like, "We're Irish so we're supposed to be able to drink more than everybody.") The drinking culture is a subject of long-standing and ongoing national debate, and it is changing. One personal view on it is in journalist Brian O'Connell's 2009 book Wasted. It's more than another sobriety memoir as it takes a broader look at the elements of culture behind the drinking.

Earlier this month Tullamore Dew U.S. Brand Ambassador Tim Herlihy put out a press release that challenged Americans to reconsider their Paddy's Day celebrations. Forget the green beer, the plastic shamrocks, "Irish yoga" and "kiss me I'm Irish" t-shirts, leprechaun hats and drunk-filled pubs where you can't hear anything over the crowd. Instead, he says do something that represents "the Irish spirit and culture in an honest and genuine way." Treat yourself to "the fry" or a traditional Irish breakfast, watch the Paddy's Day parade, take in some Irish culture at a local session or film festival and go to an authentic pub where you can raise a glass and toast the company of friends and family (and take the mickey out each other in the best ways possible). A boiled dinner of corned beef and cabbage is traditionally Irish-American, while a ham brisket in place of the corned beef is more traditionally Irish. Both are very tasty in any case.

For Irish whiskey, have a whiskey-and-whatever-you-like or whiskey in your tea or coffee, or a "hot one" of hot water, whiskey and a teaspoon of sugar. Whiskey in lemon tea also is similar, simple and very enjoyable. And if you're drinking whiskey neat, get a bottle of something you enjoy, whether it's the bottle of Jameson, Powers, Tullamore Dew, Bushmills or Kilbeggan you picked up or a higher-end bottling as special drink. It's hard to go wrong. Most of all, enjoy it with family and friends because that is what the day is really about.

Finally, don't limit that mindset of purposeful enjoyment of good company or the inclusion of Irish whiskey to just that one day. Make it how you honor yourself, your heritage and the important people in your life. That shouldn't have to be a special occasion.

In the end, it's not about the whiskey or the drinking at all, it's who you're drinking with that matters. And as far as being "Irish" on Paddy's Day or any other day, remember that it's not where you're from, it's who you're from that makes the biggest difference. So pour a dram, raise a glass and toast those present, those away, and those who are no longer with us but who are never really gone.

Sláinte

Go Leor

Richard Nagle — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 18:38:16 GMT

January marked another month of growth and good news in the Irish whiskey world. As the headline implies, it was good news go leor, the Irish Gaelic for "abundance" that made it into English as "galore."

Let's take a look:

Beam completes Cooley Acquistion
That's a check-mark in the scheme of things, really, but nothing in business is done until it's done (it's done!). Cooley have so many good things happening -- i.e., whiskeys in the works -- so it will be fascinating to see how, which and when some of those new products make it into Beam's distribution system.

As for when, I'm at least marking July 26, 2014 in my calendar. That's when Cooley's single pot still poitín -- at least the spirit in bottles that I have (Rotation 232/11, distilled 26/07/2011-- may first be available as single pot still whiskey. It's a very nice spirit that can turn into a even nicer whiskey after time in the wood. About 1,800 bottles were released late last year, and at 65% ABV. It's available only at the Celtic Whiskey Shop at and at the Irish Whiskey Collection duty free shop at the Dublin Airport for around $35.

You may have tried either the 40% Bunratty or Knockeen Hills poitín/poteen before. This is a cut above. I'll write more about it soon.

Time in the Wood

Speaking of Cooley and time in the wood, Livermore, CA, winery Concannon Vineyards teamed with the distiller to finish a four-year-old Cooley blend for four months in Concannon's Petite Shirah wine casks.

It's actually a mix of Cooley grain, bourbon cask-aged Cooley malt and Cooley malt finished in the wine casks. The result is Concannon Irish Whiskey, introduced last month. I'm looking forward to trying it soon. Post your impressions in comments here if you've had a chance to try it. Suggested retail is $24.99

Check out their promotional video. It has some nice footage of Cooley's Riverstown, Co. Louth distillery in operation. There's also an intro to the whiskey from Cooley's Master Blender, the ever-affable Noel Sweeney, Cooley Brand Ambassador John Cashman and the Vineyard's John Concannon.

In The Wood
Back to time-in-the-wood again, this time with Knappogue Castle's Twin Wood 17-year-old single malt released in late January.

Quite logically, of course, it follows on the KC 16-year-old Twin Wood from last year, which was aged 15 years, 3 months in bourbon casks, followed by 9 months in Oloroso sherry butts. If you do the math you'll see that the 17-year-old spent 15 more months in the sherry wood. Both are limited releases. Best guess is that they are distilled at the Old Bushmills Distillery. I'll be hunting the 17-year-old down soon for a tasting. Retail is around $100/bottle.

Getting Our Irish Up
The US Distilled Spirits Council last week reported that Irish whiskey sales in 2011 in America outpaced those of single malt Scotch whisky. Irish whiskey sales rose 24 percent last year to 1.7 million cases, compared to a 9.5% rise to 1.4 million cases for single malt Scotch. IDL/Pernod Ricard's push on Jameson sales is a big reason for that, as is increased consumer awareness of the category. Yes, that is very good news and matches what we see out there in the market. But remember that total Scotch sales are closer to 9 million cases, including blended Scotch whiskys that account for 90 percent of all Scotch shipments worldwide.

Whiskey/whisky sales overall are on the rise. All boats on a rising tide, as they say, and Irish whiskey justifiably is both a main reason and a chief beneficiary.

Worth Chirping About
Red Breast sales in the US alone are expected to post a 50 percent increase this year to 15,000 cases from 10,000 in 2011. It is the quintessential Irish Single Pot Still whiskey in America, as Green Spot, Powers John's Lane Release and Midleton Barry Crockett Legacy are not available at retail in these parts. The widely available 12-year-old and its 15-year-old brandmate are now being joined by the 12-year-old Cask Strength. We've had spottings of the Cask Strength release in the Boston area last week. To badly paraphrase a more nobly stated sentiment, some people look at Red Breast cask strength on the shelf and ask "if". We look at it and ask "how many."

Go get it. It's wonderful stuff.

If you need more authoritative validation of this advice, Whisky Advocate magazine named Red Breast 12-year-old Cask Strength as the Irish Whiskey of the Year.

There's much more to report, including the last and next Irish Whiskey Society of America tastings, but we'll stop there for now.

Sláinte!

Happy News Year!

Richard Nagle — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 19:04:19 GMT

Although fat-fingered typing is one of my specialties, that's not a typo in the headline. It's a comment on the amazing and encouraging growth in Irish whiskey in 2011, and in the whiskey/whisky world in general.

Congrats to Everyone in Kilbeggan, Riverstown, and Dublin!
Cooley as usual led the way with new releases at the beginning of (and throughout) 2011 and by re-shaping the market at the end of the year with its $95 million acquisition by Beam Global. It's a well-deserved accomplishment by the good folks at Cooley. Beam's worldwide reach promises to bring Cooley's great products and innovative spirit to a wider market, and rightfully so.

While it's natural to regret that are now no Irish-owned distilleries (at least in operation), Cooley's acquisition has a far more positive feel to it than the Pernod Ricard and Diageo acquistions of IDL and Bushmills in past years. Those came from troubled circumstances but have played out well, especially at IDL. But Cooley's "problem" of being a smaller player competing with multinational companies is one born of success, growth and greater opportunity. Cooley is not a case of a company in "poor old Ireland" that got gobbled up, but a new Irish model for the creation of value. And I don't just mean financial value but also that of innovation, entrepreneurial spirit and, of course, great, distinctly Irish products. Especially during a tough time in Ireland, it's definitely a reason to raise a glass to celebrate while contemplating new ventures and challenges.

IDL is the clear leader in terms of size. But it showed why its leadership comes from more than market presence when it re-introduced, re-branded and expanded its Single Pot Still (SPS), formerly Pure Pot Still, line of whiskeys in May and in October. Powers John's Lane Release 12-year-old and Midleton Barry Crockett Legacy whiskeys joined Red Breast and Green Spot in the SPS line and have wowed whiskey drinkers since.

The cask-strength version of the venerable and excellent Red Breast 12-year-old made its debut in the Fall to raves also. And just today Pernod announced it will make the cask-strength version available in the US next month. Look for it at about $65/bottle. And when you see it, get it. Don't think about it, just get it. At least one. The 40% ABV 12-year-old always wins converts and tastings. The 57.7% ABV cask strength version is simply wonderful stuff.

I'm often asked by drinkers and retailer alike when the fabulous Green Spot will land in America. No word on that yet, and I'm not sure if it will for some time as the volumes produced are relatively low. You'll still have to get yours in the US from Dublin or the random specialty retailer.

Bigger Still
Maybe that will change over time as IDL's expanded distillery capacity comes online. The planned €100 million ($130 million) expansion at Midleton has been accelerated based on market demand for IDL's products. That's good news for the Irish economy with 280 new jobs expected. It's also good news for whiskey drinkers looking for greater access to new and existing whiskeys.

Before and after aerial images of the Midleton Distillery Showing the new white cylindrical fermenting tanks near top left and the new stillhouse in the taller green building (think column stills) at top center. The 'after' image is a mockup, as is the artist's impression below showing a glassed-in stillhouse.

"Serious in the making, but not in the drinking..."
IDL has assembled a first-rate team that is producing first-rate whiskeys from the distillate, to the wood management program, to the aging and blending, to the product packaging and the marketing. Look for more extensions to the SPS line. And if you haven't tried regular old Jameson, Powers and the like, do so. They too are benefiting from the investment in quality people, process and product.

Meanwhile, to the north...
Diageo's Old Bushmills Distillery has been unusually quiet for an unusually long time as far as new whiskeys go. That may be a sign of changes and new whiskeys in the works. The current line-up includes some truly excellent blends and single malts (I describe the 21-year-old as "liquid sex." It's, um, very good.) With so much market growth as well as competitive pressure it seems likely that we'll see news coming out of Antrim before too much longer.

And it just keeps coming
As far as specific whiskeys, there have been so many and so many good ones that it's been hard to keep up. I actually have some whiskeys introduced last year that I have yet to open. And those are just the Irish ones, let alone the new Scotch, Japanese and American whiskys I have. But a few jump immediately to mind:

Tyrconell 11-year-old Sherry Cask finish at cask strength. Bottled for the Celtic Whiskey Shop and introduced at the first Whisky Live Dublin event in May. Wow! You've got to get it from the CWS in Dublin. Worth the dollar and the bother. Luscious and mouthwatering. Shows in a remarkable way what another year in the wood can do as it is a wonderful world apart from the 10-year-old 40% bottling from 2010.

Connemara Turf Mor. Peat heads unite. This is smoke, fruit, floral, smoke and more smoke. Flavor galore. For you phenol counters its right up there with Ardbeg, beyond Laphroig (also owned by Beam Global, btw). Yum.

The entire IDL SPS line. Picking which one to drink on any given day is a fabulous problem. And the thought of extensions to that line makes me smile. And get thirsty. Great things coming out of Midleton and more ahead.

The SPS lineup -- minus the Red Breast Cask Strength

There are many more I could mention. The point is to pay more attention to Irish whiskeys, both existing brands that you thought you knew and new ones that you don't yet (as they say, no strangers, just friends we haven't met yet). Whiskey is all about flavor, variety, complexity and personal preference. So pick up a bottle and share it with good company.

Resolved
It has been such a busy and eventful year. That's one reason why this blog has gone stale at times in the past year. When new, unopened bottles are sitting on my shelf for months awaiting attention you know there are other demands and distractions in play. I'll be putting more time into the blog so don't count it out. The Irish Whiskey Society of America has been another thing taking time, but productively so. Still, it's ironic that I have less time to write because I'm spending more time with the subject. Anyway, please hang in there.

More soon.

Sláinte, and a great new year to everyone.

And Counting...

Richard Nagle — Fri, 14 Oct 2011 18:29:43 GMT

I was nearly organizing my whiskey collection the other day ("nearly" means moving bottles from one place to another vs. what might generally be considered "organizing"). That's when I noticed the numbers of new Irish whiskeys introduced this year. I started counting the ones on hand and others that either haven't joined me or been introduced to the U.S.

Best Guess
My count is preliminary but I came up with 14 new Irish whiskeys introduced in 2011:

Greenore 18-year-old
Kilbeggan 18-year-old
Tyrconnnell 11-year-old bourbon cask
Tyrconnell 11-year-old sherry cask
Connemara Amontillado finish single cask
Red Breast 12-year-old cask strength
Writer's Tear's cask strength
Green Spot
Midleton Barry Crockett Reserve
Powers John's Lane Reserve 12-year-old
Titanic 5-year-old
Titanic 10-year-old
Knappogue Castle 16-year-old Twin Wood
Michael Collins 10-year-old single malt

I include the Titanic whiskeys as they were announced in Belfast in May (at the site where the iceberg-bound ocean liner was built) though I haven't yet seen them available. I also include Green Spot, while not a new brand, as the re-issue is essentially a new whiskey within the Midleton Single Pot Still line. Similarly, I left the "regular" Red Breast 12-year-old off the list as it was a re-packaging of the existing whiskey.

So that's 14, and counting, not yet 10 months into the year.

I'm sure I have left others off the list. Who did I leave out?

Sláinte!

The Powers That Be. And Was.

Richard Nagle — Tue, 11 Oct 2011 19:56:18 GMT

The introduction earlier this year of Powers John's Lane Reserve single pot still whiskey was the debut of a terrific whiskey. I'm tempted to say "new" whiskey -- and it is -- but it's also a nod to the way and the location where Powers whiskey was made before the blending of grain whiskey in the 1970s. The former Powers distillery on John's Lane (off Thomas St) in Dublin was the largest distillery in Dublin, quite a lot larger than the Old Jameson Distillery across the river on Bow St. in Smithfield. The 7-acre site was one of the most impressive sights in Dublin in its day.

So it was fun to find some original photographs of the working distillery that were taken about 5 years before it closed and operations moved to Midleton in 1976. The pictures were taken for a Chicago Tribune article about Irish whiskey that ran in March 1971. Purchased from the Chicago Tribune archives, the pictures were the original prints with edit marks and cutlines (captions) pasted to the back of the photos. They give you glimpse into the recent past at the Powers Distillery. Here's a few:

The cutline says this is Technician Robert Blake checking on the 19,000-litre still.

The cutline says this is Paddy Keogh nosing the whiskeys

The site of the old distillery was subsequently occupied by the National College of Art and Design in 1980. Although most of the buildings including the stillhouse were razed, the Distiller's House on Thomas Street and the three huge pot stills were preserved outdoors. Although it is an active educational institution and not open to visitors per se, the stills may be seen on request if you ask at the college reception offices.

For more about the distillery including pictures of the former and present site check out the Powers John's Lane page on Heidi Donelen's Irish Whiskey Trail website. Also be sure to visit the Powers John's Lane Reserve Whiskey site and the Powers Gold Label site.

Sláinte!

Spam

Richard Nagle — Thu, 06 Oct 2011 15:49:09 GMT

Apologies to all of you comment-ers out there in Internetland, but I had to turn off comment notification earlier this year due to a large amount of spam comments. The spam storm has passed (temporarily I'm sure), notifications are turned back on and your comments are up, live and definitely welcome. And, as it turns out, we're back up posting after a long hiatus. Good to have you all back.

Sláinte!

All Things Single Pot Still

Richard Nagle — Tue, 04 Oct 2011 13:04:53 GMT

IDL recently launched a new website devoted to its single pot still whiskeys. And like those whiskeys, it's worth spending some quality time with.

The SPS website landing page. The IDL's Master Blender Billy Leighton in the photo

Singlepotstill.com is a sumptuous and media-rich journey through the history, heritage and re-birth of traditional Irish pot still whiskey. The site includes photos, graphics and more than 40 minutes of HD videos hosted by whiskey author Peter Mulryan.

The videos especially are worth watching for behind-the-scenes looks at the New Midleton Distillery and interviews with the "Masters" at Midleton: Billy Leighton, Dave Quinn and Barry Crockett. It's about as close as you can come to your own VIP tour of the facility from your desktop. We got a clear sense of the excellent production values behind the site back in May, well before the site itself launched last month just by looking at all of the other collateral materials. It's extraordinarily well thought-out and executed.

As well it should be as it's presenting some truly excellent whiskeys. Those of us in America have to confine ourselves to the standard Red Breast 12- and Red Breast 15-year-old bottlings; the Green Spot, Power's John's Lane 12-year-old and Midleton Barry Crockett Legacy SPS entries are still tied up in the bureaucratic nomenclature limbo that was an impetus for the re-naming and re-branding of formerly "pure pot still" to "single pot still." No word yet on when that will be resolved but we're guessing Q1 next year.

We've already featured Green Spot and the wonderfully robust Power's John's Lane at an Irish Whiskey Society of America tasting this past spring and summer. We expect to be able to give you another advance taste of the other SPS whiskeys in the next few months so stay tuned. Meantime, you can whet your appetite -- and tease yourself a bit -- by learning all about each of the whiskeys at the SPS site.

Sláinte!

Red Breast 12 Year-Old, Going Strong

Richard Nagle — Mon, 03 Oct 2011 19:51:02 GMT

At the May introduction of the its Single Pot Still (SPS) whiskey initiative, IDL stated that it would be extending the brands within the lineup -- Red Breast, Green Spot, Powers and Midleton -- and that Red Breast would be among the first. That first promised introduction happened recently in Dublin with a cask-strength (57.7 % ABV) version of the quintessential Red Breast 12-year-old.

For an account of the launch event and some initial impressions of the cask-strength Red Breast check out David Havelin's account at Irish Whiskey Notes.

The standard Red Breast (40% ABV) is one of my favorite whiskeys in any category. It often tops the preferences when we include it at Irish Whiskey Society of America tastings. It's one of the best all-rounders and I use it as one of my standard Irish whiskey gifts.

The official tasting notes for the cask-strength bottling are:

Nose
A fruit explosion: figs, dates, ripe banana, sultanas, red apple and lime. Pot still spices combine with the sweet vanilla and pine from the casks.

Taste
Deep full dried fruit, a touch of citrus with aromatic oils and spices. Vanilla sweetness leads to toasted oak and barley.

Finish
Exceedingly long finish with a rich complexity of spices and fruit, slowly fading through sweet butterscotch to barley.

Yum.

Availability in the U.S. is expected next February with pricing around $85. We're keen to get hold of a bottle of the cask strength and plan to do so within the next month or so. We'll be back with some tasting notes and observations ASAP and will feature it at a coming IWSA tasting. Meantime if you procure one please share your impressions in the comments.
Sláinte!

Puck of the Irish

Richard Nagle — Thu, 16 Jun 2011 11:10:34 GMT

I'm a lifelong Boston Bruins and hockey fan. So when my Irish Whiskey Society of America colleague Allan D. asked me the other day what whiskey I would pour to celebrate a Bruins Stanley Cup win, I thought it was an interesting question that deserved careful consideration (but NOT until Game 7 was done. It's playoff hockey and anything can happen.)

After watching the Bruins win the Cup for the first time in 39 years, I came up with an answer: I'm not going to pour a single whiskey. I'm going to pour two: some 36-year-old Knappogue Castle 1951 in appreciation of legacy, and of the time and effort it takes. Then some 3-year-old Kilbeggan Malt to toast something new, young and with great things ahead.

Sláinte!

Pioneer-ing Irish Whiskey in America

Richard Nagle — Wed, 15 Jun 2011 01:05:38 GMT

At Irish Whiskey Society of America tastings we make -- and usually prove, I think -- the point that although we really like pretty much everything about the whiskey, it's not really about the whiskey in the end. It's about the people, the conversations, the connections, the socializing, collectively also known as the craic. Many times I've heard attendees say that they enjoyed expanding their knowledge of Irish whiskey, heritage and culture, but that they really liked sharing that experience with new and old friends.

We've also noticed that some good sports come along with whiskey-drinking attendees. These folks aren't really whiskey drinkers, or even drinkers beyond an occasional glass of something. They came for the social part or to be the designated driver. That makes them whiskey supporters, I suppose. They're important because they are there in support and really did come along for the craic, even if they never heard of the word.

We welcome those supporters. And in keeping with the "history and heritage" part of our mission, we've come up with a new type of lower-cost tasting fee. It's called the "Pioneer" tasting fee, after the Irish Total Abstinence Association of teetotalers. No Pledge-Taking involved however. (And yes, that's rife with contradiction, but there's your Irish heritage for you.) It gives us a brief opportunity to talk about the Pioneer movement, Father Mathew, Father Cullen, etc., etc., for just another slice of historical context.

There's your man: Fr. Mathew on St. Patrick Street in Cork, and Fr. Cullen

No disrepect intended to the Pioneers themselves, and it's all in good fun. The craic, so. Our "Pioneers" can enjoy being out with friends or partners, the food we provide at the tasting and everything else, just without the whiskey. And it's $20 vs. our regular $35 fee.

All for a good cause.

Single-Minded About Irish Whiskey

Richard Nagle — Wed, 11 May 2011 10:56:00 GMT

Irish Distillers Ltd's (IDL) launch last week of two new Single Pot Still (SPS) whiskeys signaled a number of important developments to whiskey drinkers and the spirits industry at large, not the least of which were impressive new whiskeys.

The event itself was well-planned and well-produced as IDL hosted about 100 writers, distributors and others at its Midleton Distillery. That's no mean feat as the day's activities were taking place at both a working museum and an industrial-scale distillery and warehouse complex. The evening's gala dinner took place in one of the museum's old spirits storehouses. Our guides and hosts were none other the three Jameson Masters -- Barry Crockett, David Quinn and Billy Leighton -- along with many of IDL's distillery and marketing managers and supporting staff. All hands on deck, if you will. From the printed materials to the behind-the-scenes logistics to the whiskeys themselves it was evident that a great deal of thought, planning and budget went into the event.

That's Nice. So What?
The point of recognizing all of that is not simply to compliment the IDL team (well-deserved in any case), but to put the launch of the SPS line and two new SPS offerings into a broader context. It's a context that looks beyond great new whiskeys we can enjoy (though that may be 9-12 months away for American whiskey drinkers). It highlights IDL's market-mover role, signals many more developments ahead and celebrates the ongoing and impressive renaissance of Irish whiskey as a spirits category. Down the road we might even look back and say that last week's SPS launch was the "coming out party" for Irish whiskey's restoration to it's former status as the world's premium spirit. Time will tell, of course. But there is much in play here just as there is at the other distilleries, notably Cooley's Riverstown and Kilbeggan facilities. These are exciting times.

The title of IDL's intro video at the beginning of the launch event

But let's not get too visionary and high-minded here, bejeez. Let's go get some whiskey!

Coming Soon To A Glass Near You
IDL actually launched the SPS line and nomenclature on April 7 in response to a U.S. government agency questioning use of the word "pure." IDL probably was happy for the opportunity to fashion a new category launch from a bureaucratic muddle. There's also a benefit in using "Single Pot Still" to both play off and differentiate from the near-universal recognition of "single malt" as a whiskey category.

IDL's SPS logo. Some of the more literal/engineering-minded have wondered why it's called "single" pot still when three are shown. I say pour them a drink and both of you will tolerate the matter better.

The widely loved Red Breast 12-year-old and it's 15-year-old brand mate, plus the fabulous but limited-release Green Spot were the first official SPS entries. Even before the April 7 "SPS" introduction they were long recognized as the only "pure pot still" offerings. Each got packaging makeovers. Green Spot received a ground-up redesign. The whiskey itself changed with a relatively more pronounced green apple and fruit on nose and taste with the barley itself driving more of the flavor, and a pleasing and longer finish.

And even though bits of info had leaked out about them before the launch, the new Powers and Midleton SPS offerings were truly new and the ones we were dying to meet. And we did that day in a tasting hosted by Master Distiller Barry Crockett in the Master's Cottage -- Barry's former home.

The SPS Tasting Line Up

Powers John's Lane Reserve 12-Year-Old
This is a wonderful reincarnation of the Powers single pot still whiskey originally produced at the John's Lane distillery in Dublin. Operating from 1791 until it closed in 1976, the John's Lane Distillery was larger than today's Midleton operation. Powers had been a pure pot still whiskey before becoming a blend in recent decades. Powers is a cultural icon in Ireland as well as a popular whiskey so changes to it -- and a return to its older style -- take on greater significance. The new Powers SPS retains the characteristic Powers spice and wood notes as well as the trademark "Three Swallows" embossed on the bottle.

"We brought to life the original flavor aspect of Powers whiskey as distilled in John's Lane," said Barry. "I happened to work at Powers before it closed so there is some interest there that I can relate this to, the style that then existed." Barry worked at Powers in the mid-70s and seemed to take pleasure in recreating the original whiskey style.

He said Powers gets its earthy, slightly fruity flavor more from specific brewing and pot still styles that differ from Green Spot's barley-based flavor. It also has a touch -- under 10 percent -- of sherry cask whiskey compared to none for Green Spot and much more for Red Breast. Powers John's Lane is bottled at 46% ABV and is non-chill filtered to stay true both to the older techniques and market preferences.

A close-up of the label

Overall, this is a rounder, livelier and more expressive iteration of both the the current standard and 12-year-old Powers. I'm anxious to try it alongside its recent predecessors. It promises to be a hit. Pricing is 45-50 Euro, so probably $60-75 in the US. IDL and Pernod Ricard are ironing out distribution in America so it's not expected to be available here for another 9-12 months. Looks like you'll just have to get in touch with the fine folks at the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin or pass through Duty Free in DUB or SNN before that to get your hands on a bottle.

Midleton Barry Crockett Legacy
Barry himself introduced his namesake whiskey, wryly noting the irony of the "Legacy" designation as he passed the bottle around the table: "Not that I wish to depart this life any time soon."

It's a fabulous SPS Midleton release, delicate, floral, a faint nose of pears with the vanilla/honey/toasted wood taste coming from aging in American bourbon barrels and a portion in "B-naughts" or new American oak barrels. It contains 10-22 year-old pot still whiskeys with a touch of 24-year-old whiskey.

The Midleton Barry Crockett Legacy packaging and label close-up

While 40,000 bottles of the current Midleton Very Rare vintage whiskeys are produced annually, only 7,000 bottles of Legacy will be issued at least for this first bottling. But it will continue and is the first in what Barry described as a coming line of "other expressions of pot still whiskey" under the Midleton label.

But Wait, There's More.
The two new whiskeys (three if you count Green Spot) and IDL's launch of the SPS category signals the extensions of existing brands such as Powers and Red Breast as well as entirely new pot still whiskey styles.

"You can see that in this line up we have quite distinct flavor aspects in terms of the Irish pot still range," Barry said. "Both the Powers John's Lane and the Midleton will be ongoing expressions, in other words they're not just once-off bottlings. They will appear again as time progresses. And the intent is over the next medium term, even short- to medium-term to long term, to bring newer versions and newer styles of pot still whiskeys on to the market."

Irish Single Pot Still whiskey "has a real role to play," he said. "Just in the same manner as the single malt concept got so much attention in world terms we believe that this range of Irish pot still whiskeys will also grab a lot of attention."

He said that the growing market recognition of Red Breast played a big educational role and has been a catalyst for the SPS expansion. "From my own experience in trips to the States I've seen that people have broadened their understanding of Irish whiskey and in particular are now moving to the appreciation of the pot still category."

History, Legacy, Opportunity
Irish distillers in past decades have been simultaneously inspired and burdened by history. But a corner has been turned in recent years as the category gained new legs and recovered from the lingering effects of near-extinction. But it is clear that those days are, indeed, past.

The distillers today are reviving the best aspects of past whiskey-making styles and traditions and adapting them to current tastes. Because of its size and global reach, IDL is driving the market. For that reason alone the SPS category will capture a lot of recognition. IDL's 100 million Euro expansion in the next two years will double distilling and warehouse capacity and provide flexibility to create new and smaller batch whiskeys. As David Havelin reports in Irish Whiskey Notes that expansion is being accelerated. Barry Crockett said that the new stills are ordered and about to be built by Scottish coppersmiths using the same designs as the current stills.

Diageo's Bushmills Distillery has been quieter recently but you have to believe that they are at least in the planning stages of new developments.

And though it is much smaller than IDL or Bushmills, the Cooley Distillery continues to drive innovation and is releasing excellent whiskeys under its own and private labels. Its re-opening of the Kilbeggan Distillery was a watershed event and the three huge pot stills recovered from the Tullamore distillery and now housed in Kilbeggan offer much promise once in operation. Cooley is the only Irish-owned distillery, and its success has attracted the interest of Scotland's William Grant & Sons. William Grant last year bought the Tullamore Dew brand. An acquisition of all or part of Cooley would substantially boost William Grant's Irish operations far faster than reported plans to build a new distillery in Clonmel, Co. Tipperary.

The Single Pot Still category launch is more than just the premiere of new whiskeys. It is in the beginning of a new chapter in the history of Irish whiskey.

Irish Reserve

Richard Nagle — Fri, 29 Apr 2011 17:29:00 GMT

Just as a fine whiskey exhibits a balance of all of it components, the art, science and business of whiskey-making is a balance of satisfying market demand for something new, respecting current brand loyalties and incorporating traditions of the past.

The Irish Whiskey Society in Dublin and Irish Distillers Ltd. (IDL) Thursday balanced all of these elements at the Society's April tasting. Held at The 1780 Bar the the old Jameson Distillery on Bow Street in Dublin, the tasting itself was of all of the Midleton and Old Jameson Distillery Reserves over time. There was also a 7th "Surprise Whiskey" -- one of the two new single pot still whiskeys to be introduced in Midleton next week.

Society member Ken Mawhinney also presented the new, special limited-edition hardcover reprinting of a 1941 essay by Maurice Walsh, a former excise officer in Scotland and Ireland with a deep appreciation of whisk(e)y. Maurice Walsh also authored romantic short stories, including the one that the classic move The Quiet Man (starring John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara) was based upon. Ken produced the volume to honor Irish whiskey's past and inform the present. The 1941 essay, which appeared in the literary journal The Bell, is among very few writings about any whiskey, let alone Irish, prior to 1970. As such it provides a glimpse into past thinking, attitudes and practices. Maurice Walsh also was the grandfather of the legendary Barry Walsh, the retired Master Blender at Jameson/IDL who wrote the Afterword to the book and spoke at the presentation.

Barry Walsh, Ken Mawhinney and Ken's wife and daughter with Maurice Walsh's re-published essay

The Prodigal Jameson 5 Star Returns
IWS President Leo Phelan presented a bottle of the amazing Jameson 5 Star (read the two-part history about it here and here) to our IDL host David Byrne for inclusion into the permanent exhibit at the Old Jameson Distillery. Avid and knowledgeable collectors of Irish whiskey, Leo and his brother Adrian found the case of Jameson 5 Star in an online auction several years ago, then traced it's fascinating history. This bottle of whiskey has now completed a 110-year, 10,000-mile journey back to the place it was made.

IWS President Leo presents the Jameson 5 Star to IDL's David Byrne

IDL's hosting of the tasting too was notable as the product of several years effort by the Society building both its own organization and connections to the distilleries. Finally, the Irish Whiskey Society of America was represented by me and my three brothers who are first-time visitors to Ireland.

IDL Distiller Liam Donegan presents the evening's Reserve whiskeys

IDL Distiller Liam Donegan presented the evening's 7 whiskeys with background on the components and thought that went into the blending of each. He also noted that while he had helped create some of them during his 11+ years at IDL, Barry Walsh was the mind, nose and palate behind many of the others. The line-up represented all of the Distillery Reserves created over the years for sale at the Old Midleton Distillery and the Old Jameson Distillery in Dublin. Each used whiskeys a minimum of 12 years old:

Jameson Heritage Centre Distillery Reserve, 1992-2000
Luxuriously sherried, robust and rich with a lasting taste. My favorite of the Reserves.

Midleton Distillery 2000 Reserve
Lighter and Oaky than the Heritage Centre bottling. More restrained.

Jameson Experience Midleton Distillery Reserve, 2007+
Sherry makes more of an impression though not as pronounced as the first.

Old Jameson Distillery, Distillery Reserve, 1999-2007
Very different than the others, based on a different distillate. Odd nose described around the table as lightly sulphury, oaky. Dry on the mouth then fruity and "big pear" taste with one vote at the table for banana. Long finish. This one grew on me.

Old Jameson Distillery Distillery Reserve, 2007+
Fruity, berry, black cherry. Long finish.

Distiller's Selection 2005
One-off creation for La Maison du Whisky. All first- or second-fill American bourbon casks and 13-14 years old. Higher grain whiskey content. Spice and vanilla.

Sampling each was like a sensory roadmap to the intricacies and complexity of creating whiskeys each its own character. Even slight (and fully intentional) variations in mash bills (the mix of grains used), distilling procedures, cask selection (down to the type, age and number of uses of each) and the blending produces profound changes in nose, taste and finish. And as Liam noted it is a balance of art, science and market rationale that drives their creation.

Liam handed off to David Byrne who discussed the recent change in nomenclature from "Pure Pot Still" to "Single Pot Still" (a result of the US Office of Tariff Affairs and Trade Agreements questioning and demanding justification for the word "pure"). Single Pot Still now means a pot still whiskey from a single distillery, just as "single malt" means a malt whiskey from one distillery.

IDL on May 5 will launch its new and expanded Single Pot Still Line of whiskeys with re-packaged Red Breast and Green Spot bottlings (but still the very same whiskeys we know and love). IDL also will launch new Single Pot Still (SPS) offerings, one of which was the 'Surprise Whiskey" offered at the tasting. What we know or sure is that it is a new 46% ABV SPS with just a touch of sherry flavor with some fruit. We'll let the mystery linger for another week.

The new Red Breast and Green Spot packaging

News You Can Use

Richard Nagle — Wed, 27 Apr 2011 07:07:00 GMT

Busy, busy, busy in the whiskey world since launching the Irish Whiskey Society of America in March. Here are some quick-hit news bits that I'll be blogging over the coming week or so:

IWSA taking membership signups online: Memberships sign-ups are now online at america.irishwhiskeysociety.com. We've also posted our monthly tasting calendar for the Boston area. We'll start rolling out to other cities later this year so stay tuned. If you're outside the Boston area be sure to let us know if you're in town even if it's not near a date for a tasting. We can steer you to some good pubs and maybe buy you dram if we can connect.

IWSA April tasting a success: We moved the April tasting to a private residence north of Boston when a last-minute schedule conflict bumped us from our planned city venue. But even well outside the city we had 21 attendees for the "Stepping Up, Stepping Out" tasting. That bodes well and interest is growing. We're also getting great reactions from pub owners who want to host tastings. We're setting up the May 19 tasting venue shortly so check the website for the location.

Special Irish Whiskey Society Tasting in Dublin this week: The IWS in Dublin is planning a special whiskey tasting at the old Bow Street distillery this Thursday with Irish Distillers Ltd. (IDL) presenting a range of current and past distillery reserves. The IWS also will make two special presentations to IDL.

Formerly pure, now single: Irish Distillers Ltd. (IDL) turned bureaucratic hassle into market advantage recently when it announced that "Pure Pot Still" whiskeys will now be known as "Single Pot Still" whiskeys. The U.S. Office of Tariff Affairs and Trade Agreements had decided there was a problem calling the whiskey "pure." So IDL is not only morphing the name it's re-issuing and re-labeling the excellent, formerly "Pure" Pot Still Red Breast and Green Spot whiskeys as the headliners in its "Single Pot Still" lineup. Out with 'PPS" and in with "SPS."

New Whiskeys!: IDL has invited "Slainte: the Irish Whiskey Blog" and the IWSA to attend the launch of two new whiskeys at the Midleton Distillery on Thursday May 5. We'll be there. Rumor has it that the new offerings will be Powers and Midleton brands.

Whisky Live Dublin: Whisky Live Dublin is set for Saturday, May 14, at the Mansion House on Dawson Street. The program looks excellent with an array of presentations, updates and even the launch of new whiskeys from the Celtic Whiskey Shop across the street. Probably no shortage of craic when all is said and done also. Bookings and info are available at www.whiskylive.com. We're planning on attending and hope to see you there.

More to come. Stay tuned.

Sláinte!

We Have Liftoff!

Richard Nagle — Fri, 18 Mar 2011 15:19:00 GMT

It's official: The Irish Whiskey Society of America (IWSA) is up and running.

Twenty people helped launch the Society at our first public tasting at The Whiskey Priest overlooking Boston Harbor on St. Patrick's Day eve (to keep Paddy's Day clear) with good food, a 7-sample intro to Irish whiskey and a rake of craic.

IWSA Committee members prepping the evening's samples

Fáilte Go Uisce Beatha
Most attendees had tried some Irish whiskey before but mainly just Jameson and Bushmills. Our "Fáilte" tasting introduced them to Ireland's distilleries, a bit of background and history and a slightly broader range of what's out there to explore and enjoy. Our tasting line-up consisted of whiskeys readily available at most US pubs and liquors stores:

Bushmills and Black Bush from Bushmills
Tyrconnell Single Malt and Michael Collins Blend from Cooley
Jameson, Paddy and Red Breast 12 from Midleton

After a good meal, onto the tasting!

The Red Breast was the favorite of the evening, followed by Black Bush, Jameson Tyrconnell and the others. By the end of the evening, the room was abuzz with conversations between new acquaintances who were strangers a few hours before, sharing stories and plans to connect again at our future tastings.

We'll be posting our calendar of future tastings shortly, each with a theme related to specific distilleries, brands whiskey styles (single malts, finishes, unfiltered, peat, etc.) and even broader topics like food pairings and other interests. So stay tuned.

Serious Fun
The Irish Whiskey Society in Dublin is our model. They have done a brilliant job of building a vibrant, growing, accomplished and well-organized group with regular monthly meetings and associated activities, including commissioning their own bottlings. It's the opposite of a gathering of purist whiskey snobs discussing the merits of non-chill filtering, fusol oils and the like as if it were an ideology. It's fun, and it's supposed to be. As they will tell you, they are serious about the whiskey, without taking it -- or themselves -- too seriously.

We too are taking time and care to build a solid and lasting organization that will expand to cities across America. The Boston group will be the model for starting new chapters. We are doing our homework, if you will, on everything from finance, legal matters, technical infrastructure, recordkeeping, member benefits, relationships with distillers and distributors, organization and management, and even the basic of how to conduct tastings. We aim to make it easier for you start your own chapter by having done much of the legwork upfront, a bit like a franchise model. Offering membership sign-up online with well-defined benefits is coming shortly.

Hello Out There In Whiskey Land
I've heard from a number of you interested in attending the Boston meetings and in starting a local chapter (Hello's to Jim in upstate NY, Megan in DC, Tom in Maine, Peter in Ohio, Michael in MN, Michael N. and Barry in Chicago, among others.) Keep in touch over the next few months as we grow.

It's All About...
Yes, we focus on the whiskey at tastings, for sure. But in the end the whiskey -- and the IWSA -- really isn't about drinking. It's the connections, the conversations, the stories and the conviviality sparked by our shared interests in whiskey, in heritage and -- most of all -- the craic.

Sláinte!

Happy St. Patrick's Day

Richard Nagle — Thu, 17 Mar 2011 18:27:00 GMT

Dia duit to all of you Irish, Irish-hyphenates and Irish-for-a-days worldwide on this national and religious holiday of Ireland. The day in America -- and more frequently now even in Ireland -- is often is a day-long drunk in celebration of one's Irishness. A number of folks take all or part of the day off from work to get absolutely blotto. Nothing wrong with that I suppose so long as you're safe (i.e., not hazardous to yourself and others), healthy in the general sense, not drinking the expensive whiskeys and keeping enough head about you to remember most of the craic.

But there are many ways aside from getting wasted to observe the passing of St. Patrick 1,500-odd years ago, and your Irish heritage and connections.

Here's your man flashing the shamrock at Croagh Patrick in Co. Mayo

Catholics often attend Mass to celebrate St. Patrick's conversion of Irish tribes to Christianity -- he used the shamrock to illustrate the Holy Trinity to new believers. At Croagh Patrick, a 2,500-foot mountain overlooking Clew Bay in Co. Mayo, the faithful climb to the church at the top as part of a ritual pilgrimage (not just on Paddy's Day) to repent for their sins. (The mountain also is known locally as "The Reek", referring to the Irish word for a stack or pile; the mountain is covered in scree making it resemble an exceedingly large stack of rocks). To those concerned about more earthly matters I should add that there is a pub at the base of the mountain.

In America, a boiled dinner of corned beef, cabbage, spuds, carrots, parsnips, etc., is customary. It's not Irish per se as ham is much more common and traditional in Ireland -- the closest thing here would be a smoked pork shoulder. Immigrants to America couldn't get pork as easily or cheaply so they adopted the readily available corned beef brought in by European Jews. In either case it's a tasty meal and goes great with a pint or so of stout.

Then there's the matter of whiskey. If you're already familiar with Irish whiskey or have a preferred brand then by all means share some with family and friends. St. Patrick's Day especially is a great opportunity to introduce the unfamiliar to the good dram. It doesn't have to be straight up. It's also quite good in tea, coffee or as "a hot one," with hot water, a spoonful of sugar and a slice of lemon with cloves if you want to dress it up a bit. Or just pour some into a mug of lemon tea.

If you're not familiar or even bewildered by the selection at your local liquor store, it's hard to go wrong with a bottle of Jameson, Bushmills, Tyrconnell (a single malt) or Tullamore Dew among others. If you've tried those and want to expand your horizons try the venerable Powers, or, put a little more coin in to buy some Jameson 12, Powers 12 or Black Bush. Red Breast 12-year-old also is a favorite and gets a big thumbs up from most imbibers.

Paddy is a casual favorite that appeals to many drinkers unfamiliar with whiskey. Paddy is nice though priced a bit high because of its limited US availability and to protect sales of its flagship cousin, Jameson. But ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

Cooley Distillery also produces a great range of very accessible private label whiskeys for the US market such as the economical John L. Sullivan or Michael Collins (a blend or a single malt) or the Wild Geese single malt (nicely Malty) at the premium end.

Aside from just getting locked (there are 364 other days in the year available for that. If you're counting), the day is probably best observed drinking your beverage of choice, enjoying a good meal and the company of friends and family. And slagging the bejeesus out of each other. In the end, it's all about the craic.

How do you observe St. Patrick's Day. What are your choices of food, beverage and company? At home, at a bar? What traditions do you have?

I'd Like Some (Turf) Mór, Please

Richard Nagle — Wed, 22 Dec 2010 00:46:00 GMT

Connemara Turf Mór is Cooley's latest addition to both its Connemara peated Irish Whiskey lineup and its limited edition small batch (<20,000 bottles) offerings. But as its name implies -- "mór" is Irish for big, great -- Connemara Turf Mór is a peaty powerhouse. To say that it "heavily peated" doesn't quite do it justice. It would be more accurate to say that it's HEAVILY PEATED (but light to drink; more on that later).

Mór, Mór, Mór
Like its brandmates, it provokes strong and unequivocal reactions in people who try it. You'll either really, really love it, or you really, really won't. I love the stuff myself, and completely concur with the description given to it by its creator, Cooley's Master Blender Noel Sweeney. He calls is a "savage beauty." That covers it pretty well. Generally you'll find one drinker who likes it for every two who, well, freak out. Though I should add that it was a strong favorite at a recent Irish Whiskey Society tasting in Dublin.

Phenols-Envy
The peatiness of a given whiskey/whisky is broadly measure in parts per million (ppm) of phenols. The phenols are what gives it the smoky or even antiseptic mouthwash aroma and taste. The peatier Islay Scotches range from around 35-40 ppm for Lagavulin and Laphroig to 50+ for Ardbeg. I'm generally not a fan of the the super-peats like Laphroig which is heavy and has a persistent smokiness that tastes like I've been licking the inside of a stovepipe. Connemara Turf Mór comes in at over 50 ppm. It is a peatbog monster and is bottled at a robust cask strength of 58 percent ABV. But it is light, pleasantly assertive and has a clean, non-medicinal finish that surprises you when you realize it's a three-year-old whiskey.

My reluctance to give standard tasting notes is only reinforced when it comes to Connemara. However I describe the nose, taste and finish, some people will say, "yeah, that's about right," while others will simply say, "WTF!". (Sort of like when I describe my 100+-pound German Shepherds as "big babies.") So here are some observations:

Pour. Sip. Re-PEAT
The nose is PEAT, or more like PEAT!!! But to me it's a clean smokiness with a punch of phenols. A sip or two at cask strength produces a forensic wrestling match on your tongue to sort out the components blasting out from the explosion of PEAT that hint at flavors hidden in the smoke. Just a drop or two of water softens the explosion ever so slightly and allows flavors and scents of fruit, flowers and and a hint of vanilla to ride alongside the PEAT.

As a limited bottling, the price will come in around $70.

Connemara Craic Mór
I think that the folks at Cooley are having fun in creating whiskeys like Turf Mór. That's the spirit you should have when trying it, in addition to a sense of adventure and a willingness to expand your whiskey horizons. It is a great bit of craic, and that, in the end, is what whiskey is all about.

Here Comes Sláinte Claus

Richard Nagle — Wed, 08 Dec 2010 13:51:00 GMT

It's the holiday gift-giving/receiving season again. So here are some gift ideas for the whisk(e)y-minded individuals in your lives. This might include yourselves if you not-so-subtlely share these with those seeking ideas for you this year.

Gear
As with any fun activity, ya gotta have gear. A fine and very useful gift would be a set of glencairn tasting glasses. They can be insanely pricey -- $10-$20/each in some stores. But you can find other online sources such as eBay where a six-glass set will run +/- $42 or about $7/glass and sometimes less. So shop around. You could also order a set and divvy them up among several drinking friends if you're trying to stretch dollars.

For the budget-conscious, even a set of plastic pipettes and a gallon of distilled water will impress a whisk(e)y drinker with your thoughtfulness. The combo will let them properly water their dram with a precision that OCDers and OCD-wannabes will really admire. You'll be amazed how much a few drops of water can change a whisk(e)y's nose and taste. It's a simple and fun way to add variety to their whisk(e)y drinking.

Books
Two immediately come to mind. The first is Ian Buxton's "101 Whiskies To Try Before You Die." It's $15-20 on most online bookstores. It really is a whisk(e)y drinker's book vs. a shopping list for hardcore aficionados (though it can be that too). Ian's approach is great in that he believes that whisk(e)y is first and foremost for drinking and sharing, not collecting. He picked the whisk(e)ys based on decades of experience in the whisky business. He intends the book as a kind of syllabus for guiding your whisk(e)y education. It's well-written, has a clean layout, is accessible and fun. It's guaranteed to start conversations -- and arguments -- among whisk(e)y drinkers.

The second is Jim Murray's 2011 Whisky Bible. You can get it online for about $15-$25, though if you order it from Jim's website you can have a personalized note from the author added for no extra charge. It's a must-have reviews and ratings guide for the world's whisk(e)ys.

Another possibility is any whisk(e)y book by the late, great Michael Jackson (no, not the deceased pop star). Hard to go wrong with one of his works.

Liquids
Oh, where to start? Some my default gifts are Redbreast 12 and Jameson 12. Hard to go wrong there. For around $20-30/bottle the standard Jameson and Bushmills are nice, Tullamore Dew is an accessible dram, as are Cooley and Kilbeggan malts and blends such as their own Tyrconnell and some private labels like Michael Collins and John L. Sullivan. There are so many others such as the Knappogue Castle bottlings (the 12-year-old most recently), and The Irishman blend and single malts, among many. Lots of people like Paddy too.

North of $50 to $100+/bottle it's Jameson Gold, Bushmills 16 and Bushmills 21, and Midleton VR. I'd steer you to the Tyrconnell finishes too but they aren't generally available in the States.

I say don't worry about getting a "good" one or "the best" and be adventurous (the Connemara bottlings come to mind). The nature of whiskey is complexity and variety, so feel free to add some to your whiskey drinker's holidays.

What's on your whiskey wish/giving list this year or what have you received in the past that you'd recommend?

Merry Happy, and Sláinte!