So it's quite unusual when you get a chance to taste the future as we did at the September Irish Whiskey Society meeting. Brian and Bernadette Quinn of Cooley's Kilbeggan Distillery presented a selection of spirits and whiskeys some of which are two to three years away from market release; two aren't legally "whiskey" and instead are "Irish spirits."

Brian is a treasure of information about the Kilbeggan Distillery. He and Bernadette have been instrumental first in preserving the buildings and equipment and more recently in its rejuvenation as a fully operational distillery. It had been closed in 1953 and was crumbling and decrepit when Brian first arrived there in 1973. It's a wonderful juxtaposition that the newest Irish whiskeys come from the oldest distillery in Ireland (no disrespect to Bushmills' claim of being the oldest licensed distillery but this seems to beats it fairly.)

The stories of the whiskey are fascinating, but the stories of the people who worked at Kilbeggan years before add depth and human scale to the history. When Brian first arrived in Kilbeggan from his native Co. Tyrone, he kept hearing one old-timer refer to what sounded like the "campit" or "camping" room. Because of Brian's relative unfamiliarity the the intricacies of distilling and the differences between his northern accent and the old-timer's midlands accent, he had no idea to what the guy was referring. And it seemed like a question better left unasked. Years passed and so did the old-timer. Two years later, Brian was up on a scaffold working on the distillery building and he found a sign that said "Can Pit Room" and the mental light bulb came on. The "can" to which the old timer had been referring was one of the rectangular copper receivers where the raw spirits from the stills went. The "can pit" was a throwback reference to the days of cottage-industry distilling when locals would keep their poítin in tinker's pans concealed from revenue collectors.

During the tasting we sampled some of the first clear, unaged single malt spirits from the Kilbeggan Distillery since it closed. It was distilled just the week prior. It was definitely young but surprisingly sweet, smooth and malty even at 63% ABV!

Next it was on to the recently released Kilbeggan Distillery Reserve malt whiskey. Just over 3 years old it is young but light and very enjoyable with a sweetness that comes from the narrow neck on the still. The narrow neck causes reflux where water and impurities are essentially wrung out quickly and efficiently from the "low wine" and more pure alcohol is captured. Like all Kilbeggan products, it was matured in bourbon casks. It is bottled at 40% ABV. There are just 1,500 bottles released.

Number three was the standard Kilbeggan blend, distilled at Cooley's main distillery. It's a 5- to 7-year-old blend with 35 percent malt and bottled at 40% ABV.  A bit of caramel is added for consistent color. It is a light, pleasant, everyday whiskey and readily available in the U.S. and at Duty Free.

The fourth was the Tyrconell Single Malt Mallorcan wine cask finish just released this past summer. It's the fourth of the Tyrconnell finishes including the port, sherry and madiera cask finishes. This is lovely, rich even slightly reddish whiskey, fruity in nose, with tastes of cinammon and a warm, mellow lasting finish. A real treat with much to appreciate.

In fifth was a Kilbeggan peated, small batch, cask-strength spirit, not yet whiskey as it was casked in January of 2009.  It's reminiscent of Cooley-distilled Connemara peated whiskey, of course, and wonderful for a less-than-two-year-old spirit. It leaves you with anticipation of how it will be after one or more years in the cask.

Sixth was the soon-to-be-released Cooley "Turf Mor." It's a 3-year-old, more heavily peated version of the Connemara cask strength with a powerful nose, light color, peppery but smooth taste with a hint of an antiseptic tongue feel.  Like others in the Connemara line, you'll either love it or hate it, though I'm very much in the former category as were many of the Society members tasting it that night.  I can't wait to get back to it.  

We finished with the regular Connemara which, as assertive as it is, was light and sweet compared to the Turf Mor.  That too makes me want to get back to it.

Also at the tasting we announced launch plans for the Irish Whiskey Society of America. I've formed and based the IWSA in Boston and am planning the first organizational meeting on Oct. 26 at the Whiskey Priest in South Boston.

I'm carefully following the successful model that the founders of the first and original Irish Whiskey Society in Dublin have developed over the past few years. It is a well-organized, inclusive, serious-but-not-too-serious and congenial group that has excellent practices, standards, procedures and long-cultivated contacts in the whiskey community. We are using the Boston organization as the basis for forming chapters across the U.S. over time, roughly on a franchise model. Stayed tuned for more info heading into next year. Contact me though the blog here or through the website or Facebook if you're interested in joining us in Boston or forming a chapter later next year. Exciting times!

Brian and Bernadette and the Irish Whiskey Society presented the American chapter a bottle of the Society's newly released limited special bottling of Locke's Premier Crew 10-year-old whiskey in honor of the expansion to the the U.S. The wooden case is signed by the Quinns and the Society members. You know, we just may have to open a bottle.

More whiskey news and developments ahead next week, so check back in here.

Sláinte