Merry Craic-mas, Happy Craic-nukah

A recent and timely query from a Sláinte reader got me to thinking about the coming year-end holidays, shopping for gifts and, of course, Irish whiskey. Yeah, I know that the Irish whiskey reference seems overly obvious. But Christmas is all about gathering with friends and family for good times, food and drink. Or at least it's supposed to be. I'm not much of a shopper, and the whole mall experience feels soul-less to me. So anything that puts the soul back into the holidays feels right. Sharing a bottle of good whiskey is one of those things.

The query (thanks T.D.) was about an extraordinary bottling of Irish whiskey named Knappoque Castle 1951. Other than being marketed by the same company -- Castle Brands Inc. -- this is a very, very different whiskey than the other fine Knappogue Castle whiskeys that are widely available.

Knappogue Castle 1951 has its origins in the 1960s when American Mark Edwin Andrews began buying casks of pure pot still whiskey from the top distilleries in Ireland. He aged them and bottled them under the Knappogue Castle label, named after the castle that he owned in western Ireland. It was triple distilled in 1951 at the famous B. Daly Distillery in Tullamore, Co. Offaly, and was aged in sherry casks for 36 years before being bottled in 1987.


Just 300 bottles are sold each year, making it a very, very dear drink enjoyed by relatively few people on the planet. Jim Murray's tasting notes in the Whiskey Bible will tell you that this is not a mere whiskey, it is a rare experience:

"A highly individualistic whiskey, which refuses to take prisoners. Another year in cask might have tipped this over the top. We are talking brinkmanship here with a truly awesome display of flavour profiles ranging from traditional Irish pot still to bourbon via old Jamaican pot still rum. A whiskey of mind-boggling duplicity, tricking the taste buds into reading one thing after another and then moving off on a different tangent altogether. About as complex and beguiling as straight Irish Whiskey ever gets. Astonishing and truly a thing of beauty."

All of that beauty doesn't come cheaply. But it is not expensive -- it is very expensive. In the U.S. the prices range between about $1,000 to $2,000, though the odd bottle sometimes shows up for as low as $700. Reader TD was wondering about pricing trends. Near as I can tell, Knappogue Castle 1951 will remain priced as a rare, heirloom-quality whiskey to be purchased, cherished and enjoyed in circumstances deemed appropriate by its buyer.

Now before you go feeling gobsmacked, saying "Holy Shite!" and other similar retorts about spending $1,000+ for a bottle of Irish whiskey, consider this: people think nothing about spending several times more than that on home electronics that will be obsolete in a few years, or 50-100 times that for a rapidly depreciating luxury sports car to haul their carcasses around. Not that there's anything wrong with either of those. The point is, it's not about the price (especially if you have the coin to do it), it's about the value. I guess you could buy a few bottles for investment purposes, though it would be heartless not to enjoy some yourself. Life is short.

The only other trend, if you want to consider it as such, is the increased buying power of the dollar against the Euro -- about $1.26 to the Euro at this writing, down from about $1.65 this past Spring -- if you're buying in the U.S. Various websites in the U.S. offer it for sale and a good liquor store may be willing to order it for you. Or, you can order it from the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin for about $1,000 including shipping to the States.

The bottom line is that if you are so moved and can find a bottle of Knappogue Castle 1951 for around $1,000, yes, step right up and whip out the plastic. If the price is in three digits then get at least one. If you have upwards of $2,000 burning a hole in your pocket then, well, sure, knock yourself out. It is a serious decision about a serious whiskey.

No, I have not yet had or made an opportunity to buy or try. And if I hadn't lost 30 percent of my net worth and seen my revenue stream slow to a trickle in the past few months then I would be making room in my liquor cabinet for a bottle. Actually, I'd probably try to purchase a tabernacle vault to keep it in. But, getting back to the point of this entry, it would make a lovely gift that I would graciously accept (never mind the fact that such an event would only take place immediately after monkeys flew out of my backside).

Still Stuck on "Holy Shite!"?
So, yes, the economy sucks and everybody's conserving cash. But it's still very affordable to give some nice Irish whiskeys as gifts this holiday season both for the uninitiated and more knowledgeable aficionados. Here are some options in the States:

Around $20
Jameson or Bushmills -- the "standards," each with its own character and very enjoyable. And with Jameson especially you get to help the recipient explore the "pot still bite." Don't be put off by the "bite" -- it's a good thing. It's a nice way to learn more about Irish whiskey in general.

Powers, Clontarf, Tyrconnell, Michael Collins -- Powers is considered another pot still classic and is a fixture (almost literally) in most Irish pubs. Clontarf offers more nuance and complexity, Tyrconnell broadens the palate and Michael Collins is a nice drink. I'd probably go with one of the first two but you'd be good with any of them. Clontarf, by the way, offers three variations in a novel three mini-bottle package stacked to resemble a regular 750 ml bottle. You get the classic black label, the single malt and a "Reserve." Very clever. Michael Collins comes in a tall, fluted, eye-catching bottle. It's available in both blended and a slightly peaty single malt. I like the blend.

Tullamore Dew -- I call this out on its own for a couple of reasons. First it's among the least expensive and most widely available here in the States. Second it's a smooth and likable tipple, especially to those who haven't tried much Irish whiskey or even those who think that they don't like whiskey. I consider it a "gateway whiskey" (like a gateway drug but without all of the negative connotations) that begins to open up the newbies to more possibilities. I've seen it win converts many times.Tullamore Dew also is available in a green ceramic, cork-stoppered crock for $30+. Sort of kitschy but some folks might enjoy the look.

$25 to $50
Knappogue Castle -- the regular one. A fine example of whiskey without the added caramel coloring that purists (and others) think objectionable.  Just the color of the cask in there. Finishes nicely.

Jameson 12-year-old -- lovely stuff for around $30. A very nice gift and perfect for someone who's only had the regular Jameson and is ready for a step up. Or anybody else for that matter.

Red Breast -- a 12-year-old pure pot still and very nice whiskey for about $40. One of my favorites.  Good stuff.

Bushmills 10-year-old -- Interesting and robust, but a with a bit of a bite that's off-putting for some palates.

Tullamore Dew 10- and 12-year olds -- Smoother and more complex versions of the standard Dew. The 12 is more challenging.

Black Bush -- Another favorite. A very enjoyable, smooth and finely finishing drink.

$50 to $100
Bushmills 16-year-old: Delicious, seductively complex, excellent finish.

Jameson 18-year-old: Pot still bite with sherry-cask aging, and finished for the last six months in bourbon casks. Thought-provoking.

$100 to $120
Bushmills 21-year-old: Lucious, sexy, smooth and deep like an attractive, intelligent woman (or man. Your call).

Midleton -- Sparkles and dances on the tongue, takes you in multiple directions, surprises and delights with each second, finishes wonderfully and makes you say, "let's go again." Yes.

So, lots of choices and a range of prices. And there are others out there that I've left out for no particular reason (e.g., Jameson Gold Reserve, Bushmills 1608. Both very nice by the way). If I could only pick one on a budget I'd go with Tullamore Dew. A little more dough puts Jameson 12, Black Bush or Red Breast on the list. And if I just go for it, it's Midleton. Your mileage may vary, as they say, not to mention the prices.

One more thing.  If I were passing through Duty-Free in Dublin I would also snag some Green Spot, Greenore, The Irishman, Connemara cask-strength (peated -- it's something different) and grab a bottle or two of Paddy as gateway-whiskey gifts.

Merry Happy
It's hard to go wrong with any of these.  And again, it's not about the price, though price certainly matters. It's not even about the value though I think Irish whiskey offers tremendous value. It's about sharing Irish whiskey with friends and family. It's all about the craic.

Have a good holiday, and safe travels.

 

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Comments

  • 12/27/2008 4:40 PM TD wrote:
    Great post! Thank you for your timely reply to my query. I have 3 bottles of this lovely whiskey. For the right price, I would be willing (hesitatingly) to part with one bottle to you or one of your loyal readers...interested parties can contact me at tdorourke@gmail.com
    Reply to this
  • 1/5/2009 11:56 PM Barry Shannahan wrote:
    Rich, just found the answers to my quetions from the last post.

    Barry
    Reply to this
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