Sláinte: The Irish Whiskey Blog
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Sláinte: The Irish Whiskey Blog

Being A Single Drinker

Right off the top, let me state that the title has nothing to do with your marital status.  Instead, we are talking about single cask whiskeys. Four single cask issues from Midleton, Locke's, Connemara and Bushmills recently joined the collection. They are impressive.

Why Single Cask?
Typically the contents from a set of casks are mixed, or vatted, to ensure a consistent product across a given bottling. Single cask whiskey instead is literally that, bottled from a single cask. Each cask is unique and imparts variations in taste, color, nose and finish. A single cask bottling will note the cask and bottle numbers on each bottle so you can distinguish them. Single cask whiskeys also are bottled at at least 46 percent alcohol by volume (ABV) and are non-chill filtered to preserve their full character.

Midleton, Cask # 15738, Bonded 08-March-1995, Warehouse M11 Bay 8, 46% ABV
The Midleton Single Cask bottling is available from the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin. The light amber color indicates little or no added caramel coloring unlike its better known Midleton Very Rare sibling. The nose is pleasantly assertively. But it's the taste that catches your attention in unexpected ways.

 

Without thinking about it, most people drink whiskey using only the center of their tongue, leaving large portions of their tastebuds unexposed. If you do that with the Midleton you may be surprised that such a highly reputed whiskey would be merely pleasant but unremarkable with a finish that disappears immediately. But if you use your entire tongue by letting the whiskey flow gently over the sides of your tongue (don't swish it around). Then the flavors burst forth with spice, oak, fruit ( a whole basket of fruit at that), caramel, vanilla, and on, with a finish that goes on forever. You can try this technique with other whiskeys but it does not produce the same dramatic differences as it does with this issue. There's much to appreciate with this one. A special drink.

Locke's Grand Crew, Cask Strength, Single Malt, Single Cask, Cask 696, Distilled 08-February-2000, Bottled 18-September-2009, 59.4% ABV
The Locke's Grand Crew is special in many ways. It was born of a collaboration between the Irish Whiskey Society (IWS), the Inland Waterways Association of Ireland (IWAI), the Heritage Boat Association (HBA) and  Cooley Distillery, all of whom were brought together by the leadership of IWS founder Michael Slevin. You need a bit of history to appreciate the hard work behind it.

Locke's Distillery in Kilbeggan used to transport its whiskey to Dublin via the Grand Canal until about 50 years ago. The once vibrant and vital commercial route closed in 1959 as traffic and the Irish economy contracted. The HBA, the IWAI and others preserved the memory of Canal operations and some of the equipment, but portions of the Canal became unnavigable, including the 8-mile spur leading to Kilbeggan.

Although the Grand Crew whiskey was distilled at Cooley's Co. Louth facility, it was matured at the Locke's Distillery.  Members of the IWS selected the whiskeys to be bottled. And members of the HBA and IWAI did the formidable work to get the cask carted along the closed 8-mile Kilbeggan spur to the mainline of the Canal, where it continued its journey by canal boat to Dublin. It's a wonderful story. You can read David Havelin's account of it here. There's also Michael's detailed telling with many pictures at the IWAI site here.

Cooley also should be lauded for its far-sighted commitment in reviving the Locke's distillery after a 53-year shutdown.  Just this year Cooley issued the first whiskey distilled at Kilbeggan. I plan to write more about those in future.



Grand Crew itself is worth the lengthy intro.  Light amber color, classic whiskey nose, flavors of oak, caramel, flashes of chocolate, vanilla, pepper in a burst of taste that lasts and mellows exceedingly well.

Connemara Single Cask, Peated Single Malt, Cask K92/33 4083, Casked 26 August 1992, Bottle #64, Bottled 20 June 2008. 46% ABV
Cooley's peated Connemara portfolio is one of my favorites. But it's not for everybody. I find that people either love it or hate it with few exceptions. It's robust, lively and assertive. Prior to sampling this Single Cask issue I preferred the cask strength bottling over both the 12-year-old and the "regular" Connemara.  The color is straw-like and the nose is subtle but distinctly smoky peat, perhaps even more so than the cask strength. A stay on the tongue belies your expectations as it is soft, warm and full-flavored -- a flash of smoke then mellow fruits, even honey -- and a very pleasant finish.



This is among very few whiskeys for which I immediately thought of food pairings. One of my brothers independently thought the same. The food we each came up with was, of all things, honeydew melon. I tried the pair together later and it actually works. 

As far as Connemara love-hate goes, I offered (insisted really) that a few Connemara haters try it. And much to their surprise they liked it very much.  This is a great bottling to be savored and shared.

Bushmills Single Cask, Single Malt, Rum Cask. Cask 7110, Bottle 131, Bottled in 1889, 53.7% ABV
The Bushmills Single Cask Rum Cask is one of three single cask offerings from the distillery. The other two are Bourbon Barrel and Sherry Hogshead. It's light amber in color (notice how the premium special-issue whiskeys tend not to be be gussied up with caramel coloring?) and the nose is pleasantly full, reminiscent of cocoa and with the distinctive Bushmills malt character.  It's warm and soft on the tongue with a filling taste that again makes me think of cocoa, oak, fruit (apple maybe) and a rich warm finish. Lots going on there. A very nice drink.



You also can order your own labels with your name printed on the front. The order slip is attached to the neck of the bottle. A very nice whiskey, and I'm very much looking forward to trying the bourbon and sherry finishes.

Go Single
If you want a special and different treat in your whiskey drinking, watch for single cask bottlings where and when able. These are more direct expressions of the craft of whiskey making, and the virtual opposite of mass-produced spirits. They will give you depth in flavor as well as a deeper appreciation for the complexity and variations that make whiskey such an enjoyable pasttime.

 

Whiskey News: Red Breast 15, Shackleton's Whisky

Some exciting whisk(e)y news during an otherwise quiet August:



First, Red Breast 15-year-old will be arriving in the U.S. in September. Don't know where and when yet but keep your eyes open and report in here if you find it.  This is a much-anticipated revival of one of the most sought-after Irish whiskeys. The last issue of RB15 was a very limited release in Europe with the odd bottle showing up for sale in the U.S for around $200.  There was some clamor and consternation at Pernod's Ricard's stinginess with the stuff, but late last year they announced plans for its return as a regular item. It will be priced at $74.99. 

The company states: "Redbreast 15 Year Old pure pot still whiskey, the latest addition to the family, is distilled from malted and unmalted barley in traditional copper pot stills and matured for a minimum of 15 years in a combination of old Spanish Oloroso sherry casks and fresh American bourbon whisky barrels."

Red Breast 12 is commonly available in the U.S for about $40 and in my opinion is the best all-around Irish whiskey today. I always have a bottle on hand and often gift it to both regular whisk(e)y drinkers and the whiskey-curious. I have the first release of RB15 also and it is wonderful.

Next, the 100-year-old frozen crate of Mackinley's Scotch discovered at Ernest Shackleton's Antarctic campsite was open this week. Samples were drawn by distiller White & Mackay for analysis to see if the original blend can be replicated. None will be drank, though you wonder if master blenders would perhaps gain valuable knowledge of its composition by applying their expert senses to it.  The 11 bottles will be returned to the site where they were found.








What Is Irish, Whiskey?

Earlier this year, Malt Advocate Editor John Hansell posed an interesting question in his blog.  He asked, “What is Irish whiskey, really?”, noting that most of the characteristics used to distinguish Irish whiskey from Scotch whisky are not very distinctive. These include triple- vs. double-distillation, non-peated vs. peated, and the use of a pot still vs. a column or Coffey still.

There also is the “whiskey” vs. “whisky” spelling difference, which tends to get people pretty torqued. The New York Times was barraged by offended uiscephiles after using “whiskey” in a December 2008 column about Speyside single malts. The newspaper subsequently changed its style guide. See, spelling counts. But let's not lose our senses of humour/humor...

Underlying John’s question are some pesky facts that don't support those distinctions, or at least not at all consistenty.  First, many Irish whiskeys – including all of Cooley’s products – are double-distilled, and a number of Scotch whiskys are triple-distilled. Similarly, some Irish whiskeys are peated and some Scotches are not. And many Irish whiskeys contain at least some column still whiskey. About the only true defining qualities of Irish whiskey are that it be distilled in Ireland, matured in wooden barrels in Ireland and be at least 40 percent alcohol by volume. 

Four dozen well-informed whiskey drinkers commented on his blog, including many members of the Irish Whiskey Society. One of the most interesting suggestions was to establish labeling standards for Irish whiskey so that terms such as “pure pot still” have clear meaning. "Pot still" in particular has some marketing cachet, leading to odd labeling such as "pot still blend." The labels take nothing away from -- or add anything to -- the whiskeys themselves. But knowing what went into the making of a particular bottling would be enormously useful and helpful. It would also educate drinkers and help elevate the discussion above the tossing about of vague or misapplied terms. In a slightly different context, "single malt" and "blend" often are blithely used to imply the quality of the contents, or even the sophistication of the drinker, without regard to whether or not the whisk(e)y is any good.

As good and substantial as the blog entry and comments were, I felt something was missing. And I think that it has more to do with the “Irish” than the “whiskey.”

Erin Go Wha...?!
Perhaps even more than Scotch whisky, Irish whiskey carries powerful connections to national and cultural identity.  It's more than distilled spirits; it's history and heritage in a bottle. That's due in part to the Irish diaspora and the many millions of people worldwide of Irish descent. Within Ireland, there's national pride in the product. It's considered quintessentially Irish even among non-drinkers. 

There is a consistent flexibility and adaptability in Irish character born from centuries of history, from the warring tribes of Brian Boru's day to the Anglo-Norman invasion and assimilation, the Cromwellian campaign, the Penal Times, the death and mass emigration of the Famine, the Home Rule attempts, the Easter Rising, the Treaty, civil war and independence and beyond. Sorry for the one-sentence, 1,000-year history lesson, but it helps make a point: throughout all of that, the culture not only survived, it remained vibrant and transplanted itself around the planet because of its ability to adapt to changing and challenging conditions. In the U.S. for example, the Irish took over a political system that tried its best to keep them out. The Irish whiskey industry itself survived near extinction not long ago and is now one of the fastest growing segments of the spirits business. 

True Or False? Yes.
Irish culture also is notable for its paradoxes. For example, the Irish are known for being easygoing. Jameson used that notion in some advertising recently. But that casualness disguises passion and intensity. An English-Indian business colleague once told me that "you seem Irish because you're very easygoing, but it's a lot of work." Whether that was accurate or not it defined "Irish" for him.

The Irish are widely seen as some of the friendliest people in the world, and yet they can be hard to get to know. I once saw the term "unknowable intimates" when describing Irish friends. And the paradoxes continue, as Maureen Dezell writes in her book Irish America:

"The Irish are wits and optimists who struggle with loneliness and depression, fighters of fanatic heart who assume much of life is predestiined. Known for their extraordinary loyalty to to family, friends, and community, they can also be relied on to completely cut off relationships. The Irish value conformity and respectability but tend to have a high tolerance for eccentricity and subversion."

I generalize, for sure.  And in a culture of paradox, the opposite of everything above also is true (tricky, eh?). But the point is this: is it a surprise at all that John's question came up, or that it's difficult to pin down a clear definition of Irish whiskey? That, I think, is the "Irish" part of his question, and as much a part of the answer as the "whiskey." And we won't even get close to the far-ranging of question of "what is Irish" asked in a country that has changed so much in the past 30 years.

So, What Is Irish Whiskey?
Even accounting for foreign ownership of two of the three major Irish whiskey distilleries -- or at least financial reporting to the European continent -- the very resilient adaptability in Irish culture is the driving force in Irish whiskey today. 

I don't have a count, but the number of new Irish whiskeys in the past few years is amazing. Cooley in particular have been tremendously energetic and innovative in creating and marketing new whiskeys. The company also has revived the long-shuttered Kilbeggan distillery. The Porterhouse Brewing Company late last year announced plans for a new distillery in DIngle, Co. Kerry. And just last month, WIlliam Grant & Sons, the Scottish distiller (Glenfiddich, Balvenie and others), acquired the venerable Tullamore Dew brand from C&C International and is widely believed to have plans to open a new distillery, possibly in Clonmel, Co. Tipperary.

I dare not venture a proper definition of Irish whiskey. I leave that to people smarter than myself (and you should have little trouble finding them...). But informally, I'd say that Irish whiskey is one of the most traditional, innovative, reliable, surprising, under-appreciated, fastest-growing, accessible and hard-to-find spirits in the world today.

That's all good news to me, for there is much there to explore and share.

Sláinte!

Powers To The People

One sign of the continuing growth of Irish whiskey here in the States and elsewhere is the debut of new whiskeys under both new and established brand names. Each of the distilleries has been busy creating new whiskeys for their own brands and for other brand owners. Cooley Distillery in particular has done a wonderful job creating new Kilbeggan, Connemara and Tyrconnell and other whiskeys. And Irish Distillers have been extending some of their venerable brands such as Jameson, Red Breast and Powers, including Powers 12-year-old now becoming available in America (about $40).

                

The "standard" Powers truly is a standard in many pubs, and a tradition in many Irish and Irish-American families. Many folks I speak with mention it as a steady presence in the cupboard at home and the favored drink of parents, aunts and uncles. It also is remembered fondly for its "medicinal" purposes as a comforting curative offered during childhood colds -- the classic hot toddy. But its celebrity cousin Jameson, its nostalgic connotations, and its somewhat more peppery pot still taste and finish, have placed it a secondary role. Powers 12-year-old is going to shift that.

The bottom line is, starting looking and asking around for it. It is a full-bodied whiskey that embraces you with hints of vanilla and honey, delivers a fantastically warming and welcoming taste and manages to retain that great pot still character while smoothing out some of the edgier qualities of the standard Powers. But I must warn you: expect some late nights, fuzzy mornings and re-stocking trips to the liquor store. It is very, very drinkable, making it exceptionally easy to offer or accept "just one more." Sip this one straight or with a few drops of water if you must, but don't mix it. Use the standard Powers for that. And while I still use soft and cuddly Paddy to recruit new whiskey drinkers, I could just as easily pour Powers 12 for those slightly more experienced.

Sure, Powers won't upstage the bigger brand names. But it will be a very welcome addition to your liquor cabinet and would make a great gift for any whiskey drinker. And as I mentioned earlier it's another indicator of the growth of Irish whiskey category and a sign more good things to come.
 

Hocus pocus, flippity flam, razzamataz and alaka...

...ZAM!
(you Warner Brothers cartoons fans will get the reference)

My apologies for the extended disappearing act. I've finally managed to pop up here after a few weeks away from the blog. Work and life -- general reality, like -- were getting in the way as they tend to do. But much is in line for the blog and coming soon.

I have tasted 9 of the 12 whiskeys brought back from January's trip to Ireland (the fact that I haven't even cracked the seal on the others gives you a clue about my busy-ness.) I will report fully on those. Meantime, I can tell you:

-- If you can get a bottle of Powers 12-year-old -- new to the U.S. this year -- get two. Go find it. You'll like it.

-- Single cask whiskeys are special indeed.

-- I will tell you about my first experience with what I call a "full-mouth whiskey." Truly a neat discovery for me.

-- I'll tell you about the first whiskey that really had me and a brother of mine thinking vividly about what food would go well with it (melons, as it turns out.)

-- I'll share some thoughts about the question posed by by Malt Advocate Editor John Hansell in his blog about "What is Irish whiskey, really?"

Finally, in a form of 15 milliseconds of fame, I was interviewed for a brief article in the Chicago Tribune (and picked up by its syndicate) about Irish whiskey recommendations heading into St. Patrick's Day.

So, in uniquely Irish-American form, Sláinte, y'all.

More soon.

St. Patrick's Day Recommendations

Like Punxsutawney Phil on Groundhog Day, Irish whiskey for many people makes a more or less annual, high-profile, big hullabaloo appearance on St. Patrick's Day next week. And just like the big furry rodent in his hole, it then disappears back onto a bar shelf for another year, with an occasional appearance in Irish coffee and Irish Car Bombs.



That's a damned shame. It's safe to say that most people really don't know what they're missing by relegating Irish whiskey to that one day. And it's kind of silly and absurd. It would be as if Scotch were consumed only on St. Andrews Day, the celebration for Scotland's patron saint. Good thing it isn't because most people don't even know when St. Andrews Day is. (It's November 30 in case you were wondering.)

Scotch is enjoyed year-round on all occasions. And Irish whiskey can and should be as well. In fact you could easily argue that, because of Irish whiskey's very easygoing approachability compared to the relative muscularity of many Scotches, it would be an even better choice as a regular beverage. Certainly at least to those who previously haven't considered themselves whiskey drinkers.

Getting people to explore and shift their perceptions about Irish whiskey is one of my missions in life. But it's one drinker at a time. Let's start with you.

If you're already an Irish whiskey drinker I'd like to hear what you're planning on having on St. Patrick's Day. I haven't decided yet myself. That's an indecision compounded by the 70 or so Irish whiskeys I have on hand, including the 12 newcomers from my January trip to Dublin.  But that is a happy problem.

If you're not an Irish whiskey drinker or just an occasional sipper, here are some recommendations:

1) The standard Jameson is impressively good for a "regular" whiskey, as is Bushmills. Very affordable at about $20, quite likable, and readily available in most bars and liquor stores.

2) Tullamore Dew is the second best-selling whiskey behind Jameson and that's because it's very friendly and approachable to newcomers. Also affordable at $20-ish, available in some bars but in most liquor stores.

3) Paddy is probably the smoothest, softest, friendliest Irish whiskey available. It's making a cameo appearance in the U.S. in time for St. Patrick's Day. It readily wins converts and serves as an Irish whiskey recruitment tool for me. Its limited availability means it's pricier -- $35-$40, and it's smoothness (from it's low pot-still content) doesn't impress experienced whiskey drinkers. But it's eminently drinkable and a good door opener to the Irish whiskey world.

4) Jameson 12-year-old and Black Bush ($35-$40) are great steps up from the standard Jameson and Bushmills, especially for those who previously only tried those two. Really good.

5) Red Breast 12-year-old to me is the best all-around, quintessentially Irish whiskey. It's a pure pot still whiskey with a full body and rich flavor. Always a favorite. About $40.

6) Bushmills 16 year-old and Jameson Special Gold Reserve. Stepping up in price to around $80, these are two wonderful whiskeys.  You'll like them.

7) Midleton Very Rare and Bushmills 21-year-old. Another step up to about $120, but absolutely delicious whiskeys and great gifts to yourself or others. A real treat.

I've focused a lot on Jameson and Bushmills offerings not out of favoritism, as the other major Irish distiller, Cooley, makes some of my all-time favorite whiskeys that you would like also. I pick them partly because of availabilty and awareness. They are, at several levels, introductory whiskeys that pave the way for further exploration of other offerings from all three distilleries. The point is, it's really hard to go wrong with picking a good, very good or excellent Irish whiskey for sipping on St. Paddy's Day -- or ANY day.

So go get a bottle. Ask your retailer for recommendations or post questions here. At minimum you'll have a good drink, and you'll have some good fun -- the "craic" is what it's all about after all -- along the way.

Sláinte, and Happy St. Patrick's Day!
 





Whaddya Like?

A recent story in The Wall Street Journal covered an emerging trend in the wine world toward amateur tasting panels.  Instead of groups of experts gargling, swirling and spitting, everyday Joe and Jane wine enthusiasts are rating wines simply by sipping and then telling whether and how much they liked a particular bottling. That story struck a chord with me and touched on points made in one or two of my earlier entries about the dubious value of many tasting notes in the whisk(e)y world.

Um, I Don't Get It
Some tasting notes just make we nuts. I mean, I sincerely appreciate the effort to describe highly subjective tastes and sensations. It's hard. And tasters who do that are hanging it out there just by making that effort, so I don't want to impugn their intent. And, frankly, it's fun to try to pick out and describe the flavors and feel of different whisk(e)ys. Some folks I know just have a knack for it -- much more than I -- and are more often on or near target.  But many other descriptions rely excessively on metaphors and comparisons to things like bubble gum, pomegranates, cotton candy, toasted wheat bread, saddle leather, tobacco, bananas, butter, glue and just about anything else. When I read them I can only say, "you've got to be shittin' me." Who writes this stuff? It reminds me of people who stir instead of shake martinis because they "don't want to bruise the gin."  Huh??!!

Those types of descriptions don't work for me. And I don't think that they work for many whisk(e)y drinkers. Most casual drinkers rate liquor by one benchmark -- "smoothness." But in the context of a tasting they are looking to be educated and given some basis for comparing and describing their experiences with different whiskeys. First, they want to know, "Will I like it and what can I relate it to in my drinking experience?"Second, "Is it worth the money?"

What Are You Drinking?
The first part can be accomplished by informing the drinker about the origin and composition of the whiskey: distillery, water source, malting, vatting, blending selections, aging, added coloring, and so forth. Those are the elements that give each whisk(e)y its unique qualities, including different vintages of the same whiskey brand. Those qualities establish the context for understanding the color, nose, taste or palate, and finish. It also helps potential buyers understand the relative prices, i.e., the work that went into a particular bottling.

Descriptions need not follow the nose, taste, color-finish model. They can be simpler. For example, the Irish Whiskey Society uses a house style which, used at it's recent Scotch tasting, described whiskys as "peated, peppery spice, quite a filling whisky,"  "light and fruity, a touch of coastal salt with faint peat," or "creamy, light smoke, a great all-rounder." That works well.

Ratings
The question of value -- not just price -- can be addressed through a rating system. Whisk(e)y experts such as Jim Murray and John Hansell are widely known for their out-of-100 numerical ratings. Sláinte reader and Paddy's Pubs blogger Paddy the Publican recently posted a nicely common sense A-to-F rating system that ranges from an "ineffable masterpiece" to "absolute swill." And Irish Whiskey Notes author, Irish Whiskey Society co-founder and my good friend David Havelin uses a very practical 1-to-10 (worst to best) rating system where, for example, an 8 or higher means that he'd buy it if money were no object. David's also considering adjusting or expanding his system to account for price and value.

Although maybe not a widely applicable example, here's an instance of a tasting metaphor that worked well: At the recent Irish Whiskey Society "Islands of Scotland" tasting, host Michael Foggarty said the nose of one Scotch reminded him of a particular brand of condom. (That meant he didn't like it, in case you were wondering.) His metaphor instantly connected with the other tasters who understood his allusion to the odd rubbery odor from that one whisky.  As a marketing guy I instantly thought of bundled package promotions for those two products (only kidding). The point is, the comparison worked because it instantly resonated with the audience.

Weigh In
How do you describe or rate whiskeys, not just for yourself, but for those who are looking to learn more? Or should it be not much complicated then, "whayyda like?"

Recent Immigrants

Of all of the Irish natives that I had the pleasure of meeting during my Dublin trip -- and in this case I mean the liquid kind -- 12 of them I met only briefly and in passing. But I invited those dozen to join me for an extended stay in the States.

That's a convoluted way of saying that 12 Irish whiskeys have joined my collection and will soon undergo a proper tasting. It would be rude of me to have them come all this way and not get to know them a bit better. Though I've had a dram of the Jameson-produced Crested Ten, the others remain sealed until I have an official quorum for a tasting. That would consist of at least one other friend or family member, so soon enough.  I'll report our impressions after.

Here are the recent immigrants:


Three cask strength entries in the Connemara Sherry Finish, the Connemara Single Cask and the Irishman Cask Strength, plus the Tullamore Dew Single Malt.

I tried the Powers 12 in Dublin. It is head and shoulders above the regular Powers. The Crested Ten is an enjoyable and reasonably priced everyday whiskey.

Though I've tried its 15-year-old brandmate, I've not yet sampled the Tyrconnell 17. By all reports it Is an exceptional whiskey. I've tried the Port Finish and am looking forward to trying the Tyrconnell Madeira and Sherry Cask finishes.

Three real treats: The Green Spot 10, the Locke's Grand Crew Cask 696 (I've tried the 700. Excellent.) and the Midleton Single Cask.


Life is good!

Lucky 13

I was slightly hasty in calling "a wrap" of Dublin at the end of the last entry. I left out a Sunday afternoon tasting graciously served up by my friend David Havelin of the Irish Whiskey Notes blog and the Irish Whiskey Society. David and I sampled 8 whiskeys from his personal collection, plus a few bonus beverages, at his place a few miles outside of Dublin City Centre. He has many more than 8, of course, but we focused on bottlings which I had had not tried, could not get in the U.S., or just felt like having.

We tasted:

Crested Ten

A pleasant Jameson blend common in Ireland and uncommon elsehwere. Decent pot still content. A good everyday whiskey.

 
Jameson Signature Reserve
Another blend for the Duty Free market.  It's good, as in OK.




Bushmills 12yo Distillery Reserve
A decent malt available only at the distillery. Don't have an image.


Greenore 15
Very nice for a grain-based whiskey, though it also has that signature grain "sweetness."


Tyrconnell 15yo
I really like this. I had it a few evenings earlier at Bowe's and wanted another go. Not fair to compare it to the regular Tyrconnell which I can take or leave.  Rich, malty and very, very likable. An excellent whiskey worth getting if you can find it.



Lockes Grand Crew (Cask 700)
This was a special issue from the Locke's distillery issued in commemoration of the 50th anniversary of the closing of Ireland's Grand Canal.  It's a great story that you should read on David's blog. And it's a wonderful whiskey. A real treat.



Dundalgan

Had to try this one as David had flagged it as a candidate for the worst Irish whiskey. It's a Cooley blend issued for the German discounting chain Lidl. Imagine Wal-Mart, Target, BJs or Costco. etc. in the States having a store brand whiskey. This is what it might be like.  It's nearly undrinkable.  But it is highly mixable with ginger ale, cola, etc., or so we believe. I'd buy this if I were in college, and/or broke.  Reminds me -- in the cheap booze way --  of $5 cases of Schmidt's or Hamm's or even Billy Beer that we'd get on sale back in the day. And not that the label is a knock-off of the Jameson label or anything but...


Kellan
Another Cooley blend.  Not bad, not great but generically pretty tolerable. Just not much to distinguish it though.



We then branched out from whiskeys to check out a couple of whiskey novelties.  First was the interesting Spirit of Kilbeggan three-vial set of 1-month, 1-year and 2-year distillates (probably not right to call them whiskeys). They are taken from among the first production runs of the old Kilbeggan pot stills which Cooley resurrected and rejuvenated in 2007 after a 50-year hiatus. It gives you a sense of what a raw whiskey product is like and what it may become.  Interesting stuff and available only at the distillery or at the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin.



We decided then to compare the 1-month Kilbeggan to the Knockeen Hills poteen.  They are different animals, of course, and on balance I prefer the whiskey-to-be. Poteen just tastes musty to me. Hard to describe.

Finally, we sampled some lovely Hildalgo Olorso sherry recommended to me by the gents at the Celtic Whiskey shop. It's nice to drink and fun to see if you can relate the sherry flavors to the sherry cask influences in some whiskeys. I hope to try the same thing with some madeira and port soon also.

And counting those whiskeys above, that's a total of 13 new-to-me Irish whiskeys that I sampled while in Dublin. Plus there were some that I already knew.  And there were 7 Scotches.

To cap off an afternoon of Irish beverages, and this being Ireland, we went down the street for, what else? -- cheeseburgers and fries. We paid a visit to Eddie Rocket's. He apparently is Johnny Rocket's Irish cousin with similar tastes in cuisine and decor.  It was tasty.

 

Now that's a wrap.

A Dublin Wrap-Up

I'm back in the States after a great week in Dublin. While I had hoped to add a few more blog updates while there, it usually came down to a choice of sleep or writing after midnight, and believe me, I need as much beauty rest as I can get. So this is a wrap of a terrific visit in which I:

1) met great people and made new friends
2) witnessed what a quality group the Irish Whiskey Society is
3) tasted many new-to-me Irish whiskeys
4) expanded my Scotch palate and knowledge
5) enjoyed some good pubs where you can drink and talk without having to SHOUT over the music or the crowd
6) saw one of the true greats of Irish trad perform live
7) singlehandedly provided a major boost to the flagging Irish economy through my whiskey purchases.

Also, the flights, hotel, food and sights were good, and it didn't rain (sprinkles maybe) the entire week. Other than that the trip was terrible. I'm kidding of course, though the family history research part of the trip was somewhat less productive. It looks as if I may be compelled to return for additional research later. 'Tis a pity, I know.

Wednesday evening was the previously reported meeting at Bowe's. I went back there later in the week for an afternoon pint. Go there if you're looking for whisk(e)y, for a respite from the Temple Bar scene or for a traditional pub where you can actually hear each other in normal conversation and/or the game on TV.  Good place.

  The Whisk(e)y Lineup At Bowe's

Thursday evening was the IWS tasting at the Brooks Hotel featuring whiskys from the Islands of Scotland.  Yes, it may seem odd that my first attendance at an IWS meeting involved Scotch. But it only reinforced my oft-stated point that the drinking isn't about the liquor, it's about the company and the craic. Both were great. As was the liquor.

Well-organized and well-run, the IWS is operates like an outfit that's been around far longer than the year or so that it's been in existence. The venue, the preparation, the tasting selection and procurement, the logistics and even the online booking are exemplary and part of a strong foundation for growth. They are serious about it with taking it too seriously.

I arrived early to watch the preparations. We poured the whiskys into sample glasses which were then placed on numbered spots on a place card at each seat. The place cards also showed a color-coded map of Scotland's primary distilling areas. Each of the approximately 30 participants also had a Glencairn tasting glass and a water glass to be filled from the pitcher of filtered water on each table.

The Whisk(e)ys Are Poured Into Sample Cups...

...And Set Onto Place cards. Three Of the Usual Sample Set of Six Are Shown, Though This Tasting Included Seven. This Also Shows The Color-Coded Map Of the Distillery Areas.

The presenter was Michael Foggarty, "Scottish Michael" formerly of Dublin's Celtic Whiskey Shop. A native Scot, he recently left the CWS and launched his own venture called Whiskey Island, conducting tastings professionally for businesses and other groups.  He does a great job.

Michael Foggarty Giving Background On Each Whisky And Its Distillery
 

The tasting line-up in order was:

Arran 1997 Single Cask
Bunnahabhain Darach Ùr
Jura Superstition
Ledaig 15yo
Talisker 10yo
Scapa 16yo
Highland Park 18yo

Three Down, Four To Go

At the end of the tasting, participants are polled to determine favorites, then everybody can return to the bottles for a proper pour of their preference.

The Line-Up At The End Of The Tasting

David Havelin gives a great and concise account of that evening's whiskys at his Irish Whiskey Notes blog. He also applies his eminently practical ratings system. I concur with his rankings with exception of the Bunnahabhain (buhn-ah-HA-vin) which I rather enjoyed.

The cask-strength Arran cauterized the tongue without water but was marvelous with a fair splash of water. The Bunnahabhain intrigued me with how it manifested terroir, or the expression of its immediate environment. The floral and salty tastes to me just seemed to reflect vibrantly the distillery's seaside location. Michael gave an example of that type of influence, noting that some whiskys that you'd swear are peated are not, and only give that impression because the distillery's water source flows from a peat bog. The Jura was strangely rubbery, the Ledaig (le-CHIG) was a robustly peated whisky, the Talisker 10 is an assertive malt with strong but balanced peatiness, and the Scapa was mild and pleasant. The Highland Park 18 is really one of the best and most complete Scotches available. Marvelous stuff.

The evening concluded with an adjournment to the bar upstairs for a few pints. A great event all around. If you're planning to be in Dublin, the tastings are held on the last Thursday of each month at the Brooks Hotel. Check out the IWS events listing. You can even book your place online. Highly recommended.

Otherwise And Elsewhere...
A couple of days after the tasting I popped into the CWS to purchase a few Irish whiskeys that are hard or not possible to get in the U.S.  I'll be writing about those in the next couple of weeks. I also grabbed several others at Duty Free on the way home. For some strange reason I decided not to get a couple of others that I had intended to. Aside from the financial impact I was starting to feel like a whiskey glutton (must be some latent Catholic guilt. Go figure.) In hindsight, it made absolutely no sense for me to leave those few on the shelves. It would be like having a huge 12-course meal but passing up the after-dinner mint so you could feel as if you were practicing moderation. Whatever. I'll get them next visit.

Finally, I managed to get one of the last 10 tickets to the final concert of this year's Temple Bar TradFest. While I had heard his music many times before, I had never seen the legendary Finbar Furey perform. What a consummate performer and a master musician. Staggeringly good. At one point while singing the famous "Green Fields of France" he and the band stopped playing, he put down the mike, stood up and simply sang it unaccompanied and unamplified. The entire 600 or so people in the audience at the Button Factory immediately became raptly silent until he reached the chorus again, when the entire place sang along. It was a moment. Pretty cool, if you like that sort of thing.

That's a wrap. Can't wait to go back.